This blanket is 18″ by 24″, which is a specific size that my local cat rescue center requested. They like this size because it can be used both as a comfy, cozy blanket or folded in half to be a 18″ by 12″ comfort pad. I do have a tutorial for a comfort pad pattern here, because those are often requested as well. If you are new to crochet, make sure to check out my Beginner Crochet Series here.

I don’t have a written pattern for this project, as my cognitive health is still challenged, and writing patterns is very difficult. But this is an easy and straight forward pattern using a double crochet stitch. I do have a couple of little tricks that help to make this a very nice blanket. The step-by-step video tutorial is at the bottom of this page.

I don’t have a supply list because it will depend on what size blanket your local shelters request. This pattern is easy to adjust to any size you like and you can use any yarn you like as well. You can see above, I did one using scrap yarn, and another with light and dark purple. If you want to use scrap yarn, I have a tutorial on how to do a magic knot here, which is a great way to join all your pieces of yarn together.

This Crocheted Comfort Blanket for Pet Rescue Centers is an enjoyable project. I like to make them because I find this hobby very relaxing and sometimes want to do “mindless” crocheting. I like simple patterns, random colors and I like using up bits and bobs of yarn. In my last tutorial for comfort pads, some people commented that cats might get their claws caught in the material. I can assure you this is not an issue! Check out the video below for a very inspiring story that debunks that idea.

Most of all, I love making these cozy comfort blankets and pads to give a little bit of love to animals who might be feeling stressed or lonely as they wait for adoption. So, get out your crochet hooks and yarn and spread a little love!

I hope you enjoy this tutorial on Crocheted Comfort Blanket for Pet Rescue Centers.

If you are interested in crocheting comfort mats, you can check out my video tutorial below!

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I do offer a few unique tips in this pattern that help to create a perfect finish for this blanket. If you are new to crochet, then you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series, which shows you everything you need to know to make this project. You will learn how to hold proper tension, all the basic stitches, and how to darn in your tail ends. This granny square blanket is a new and improved version of the very first Granny Square Blanket Pattern I created. In the first pattern, I am using a self-striping yarn, and you can certainly use a similar type of yarn in this project as well. Rather than changing colors for every round and every other round, you’d just carry on using the same yarn.

I am using the Bernat Premium yarn for this project, but you can use any number four medium-weight yarn you like. You can use this color palette, or create your own. I did a total of twenty-eight rounds which made the blanket 33″ x 33″ (84 cm x 84 cm), but you can make it any size you like. Another choice you have is to finish the last two rounds of the blanket with a different colored yarn, or perhaps use the neutral cream color. I made this blanket in the spring (which has been very cold and wet here in the Pacific Northwest), so the color pallet I chose was probably an unconscious desire for spring to finally arrive!

Helpful Information

Finished size = 33″ x 33″ (84 cm x 84 cm) with a total of 28 rounds

Total amount of yarn used (approximately) = 860 yards (790 meters)

• ch = chain
• st = st
• sl st = slip stitch
• dc = double crochet
• beg = beginning

Again, the yarn I am using for the Easy Granny Square Blanket for Beginners is Bernat Premium Yarn which is a number four medium-weight acrylic yarn. Each ball weighs 7 oz (198 g) and has 360 yds (329 m) of yarn per ball. I will list the approximate yardage used for each color in the supply list.

Supply List

• Bernat Premium Yarn in the following colors (Yarnspirations carries all the colors except Magenta, so Hot Pink would be a good substitute. These yarns are also available from Walmart in Canada, but the color selection online is limited.
  • Aran (cream) 260 yds (238 m)
  • Magenta (pink) 210 yds (192 m)
  • Spring Green 105 yds (96 m)
  • Gold (yellow) 130 yds (120 m)
  • Sky Blue 155 yds (142 m)
• H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Scissors
• Darning needle
• Hand steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Round one: Aran-ch 5, sl st into beg ch to create a ring, ch 2 (counts as beg dc), 2 dc into ring, ch 2. *3 dc, ch 2 into the ring, repeat from * two more times. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc. This is tip number one! By joining into the top of the dc, rather than the beg ch2, the beginning cluster looks more like all the other clusters.

Turn your work. This is tip number two! For the entire pattern, you will turn your work for each round. This is a wonderful technique to help prevent the blanket from becoming twisted and wonky. A common problem with blankets that are worked in the round (going in the same direction), is that the tension of the stitches can pull the whole project in one direction. This can be an issue for people who are still mastering their crochet tension. By turning your work with each round, the tension is balanced and this technique also creates a nice texture to the blanket.

If you are proficient with your tension and don’t want to turn your work with each round, then you can certainly just continue crocheting in the same direction, but I actually really like how this technique looks.

Round two: (after turning your work), sl st into ch2 sp. Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), [ 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in ch2 sp, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in next ch2 sp. Repeat from * two more times. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc, fasten off. Turn your work.

NOTE: If you want to use just one color of yarn or want to use a variegated or self-striping yarn, do not fasten off here. Simply turn your work and continue to work the pattern in continuous rounds. Each new round will start with a beginning 3 dc cluster along the straight edge.

Round three: Magenta-Join into any ch2 sp with a sl st, ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), [2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in same ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1], in next ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * two more times. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc, turn your work.

Round four: Sl st into ch1 sp. Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc, ch 1 in same ch1 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in next ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, twice. Repeat from * two more times, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in next ch2 sp. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc, fasten off. Turn your work.

Round five: Aran-Join into any ch2 sp with a sl st, ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), [2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in same ch2 sp, *3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, 3 times, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1], in next ch2 sp. Repeat from * two more times, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, 3 times. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc, fasten off and turn your work.

Rounds six and seven: Spring Green-repeat rounds three and four, and increase the sets of 3 dc on the straight edge for each round.

Round eight: Aran-repeat round five, and increase the sets of 3 dc, on the straight edges for each round.

NOTE: Each time you join a new color, join into a ch2 sp. This makes it easier to darn in your tail ends by having two dc clusters to sew into (for the most part). This is tip number three!

Continue to repeat rounds three and four with the Gold and Sky Blue, and repeat round five, using Aran, between the colored rounds. Again, you can continue to repeat the color sequence for as many rounds as you like.

For my blanket, I repeated the color sequence twice and then did one more round with the Aran color and one with the Magenta. The last round is simply done with double crochets. Whichever color you choose to have as your final round, use that color for the last two rounds…the granny square stitch round and the border round.

For the final round, join as before…sk beg ch2, sl st into the next dc, but don’t turn your work. Ch 2, 1 dc in the next st, 5 dc in the next ch2 sp, 1 dc in each st to the next corner. Repeat all the way around. You can fasten off with a slip stitch and darn in all your tail ends, or you can finish with an invisible stitch as shown below. This is tip number four!

Cut a tail, take the yarn off your hook, and thread on a darning needle. Sk beg ch2 and bring the needle in from the back of the next dc, going under two loops. Bring the needle back in between the ‘v’ stitch of the stitch the yarn comes out of. Adjust the yarn to look like a stitch. Darn in your tail ends and your Easy Granny Square Blanket for Beginners is done!

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While this pattern is beginner-friendly, I always recommend my Beginner Crochet Series to learn all the basics of crochet if you are new to this hobby. Also, I have a video tutorial for this Crocheted Old Time Square Motif at the bottom of this post which is perfect to help the novice crocheter, or for anyone who (like me) has a hard time reading crochet patterns.

The yarn I am using for this crochet project is a thrift store find, so I don’t have any information on the fiber or official weight of yarn. My guess is that it is some sort of rayon/cotton blend, and I am quite certain this is a number three light-weight yarn. I have recommended a couple of options in the supply list below that will be of equivalent properties.

I have made a lovely scarf using this motif and you can find the tutorial here.

Supply List

• Number 3 light-weight yarn ~ 18 yards (16.5 m) per square (roughly based on yarn choice and personal tension)
  • Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Yarn
  • Lion Brand Truboo Yarn
• 4 mm (G-6) crochet hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand Steamer (recommended)
• Blocking Board (optional)

Terms and Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• 3dc cl = 3 double crochet cluster
• yo = yarn over
• beg = beginning

Special stitch ~ 3dc cl: [yo, place hook through sp, yo, draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops], 3 times in the same sp, yo draw through all 4 loops on hook.

Finished size = 5″ x 5″ (12.5 cm x 12.5 cm), base on this yarn and my tension

Crocheted Old Time Square Motif Pattern

Round one: ch 8, join with a sl st to beg ch1, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), *1 dc in ring, repeat from * 14 times (16 dc incl beg ch3). Join with a sl st into the back loop and back bump of 3rd ch of beg ch3.

Round two: ch 5 (counts as 1dc, ch2), *1 dc, ch 2 in back loop and back bump of next st, repeat from * 14 times (16 dc, ch2). Join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of beg ch5.

Round three: sl st into the next ch2 sp, ch 2, [yo, place hook through sp, yo, draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops], 2 times in the same sp, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook (beg 3dc cl made), ch 3, *1 3dc cl, ch 3 in next ch2 sp, repeat from * 14 times (16 3dc cl’s made). Join with a sl st into st closest to ch3 sp.

UPDATE: as I was creating the Crocheted Old-Time Lace Scarf pattern, I found some of the chain 8 spaces in each corner to be a bit bulky. This was because my crochet tension was too loose in some of the corners. In retrospect, I think a chain 7 would work better. For this round, you can do either a chain 7 or 8 in the corner, depending on your tension.

Round four: sl st into next ch3 sp, ch 2, [yo, place hook through sp, yo, draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops], 2 times in the same sp, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook (beg 3dc cl made), ch 8 (or 7), 1 3dc cl in same ch3 sp, ch 4. *1 sc, ch 4 in next ch3 sp, 3 times, [1 3dc cl, ch 8 (or 7), 1 3dc cl, ch 4] in next ch 3 sp, repeat from * twice, 1 sc, ch 4 in next ch3 sp 3 times, join with a sl st into the top of beg cluster, fasten off and darn in your tail ends.

Once your square is complete, I do recommend blocking the motif. You can use a foam board or folded towel with pins to shape the square. You can mist the motif with water and let it dry or use a hand steamer to moisten the motif and let it dry.

This Crocheted Old Time Square can be used to make a number of projects. It would be beautiful as a shawl or sweater. Make sure to check out my Crocheted Old Time Scarf Pattern where I use this motif. It makes a lovely spring scarf…nice and light, and will make a pretty accent. I will be sharing that tutorial next time, so make sure to subscribe to my newsletter so you don’t miss out.

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The finished length of the scarf body is 58″ (147 cm), and with the tassels, it finishes at 66″ (168 cm). The width is 6.5″ (16 cm), however, both the width and length of this scarf can be adjusted to any size you like. You can make it with or without tassels…it is totally up to you! The pattern is created by crocheting a simple half-double crochet (hdc) v-stitch and you can crochet as many rows as you like.

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The design this creates looks complicated, but it isn’t! Make this scarf as a gift (it is quick and easy to make), or make it for yourself. You can use any yarn you like, but solid colors or self-striping yarn show the pattern design the best. Some variegated yarns can distract from the design, but it depends on how variegated it is…just try a sample and see! And, as always, I have created a video tutorial on YouTube and you can find that at the bottom of this post.

Helpful Information

• Gauge: 4″ width (10 cm) = 13 stitches
  • 4″ height (10 cm) = 9 rows
• sk st = skip a stitch
• ch = chain stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet

Supply List

• Bernat Premium Yarn, color is Dalia, 7 oz (198 gm), 360 yards (329 m) or equivilant #4 medium weight yarn
  • In Canada
  • The Bernat Premium doesn’t seem to be available in the US, but I think this would look amazing!
• G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook
• H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook (optional)
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand Steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Begin with a very loose foundation chain. If you are not proficient with controlling your tension, you can use an H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, otherwise use a G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook. For this exact pattern, ch 20. If you want to make the scarf a different width, then create a foundation chain with an even number of chains. If you are using a different yarn, then you want to use a crochet hook that is one size smaller than the recommended hook size for that yarn. The reason for this is so that you can create a nice tight stitch for the scarf, which will make this a warmer fabric.

Row one: ch 1 (counts as a turning ch), 1 sc in the back loop of the first ch (not the turning ch), 1 sc in the back loop of each ch to the end of the row (total 20 sc, or whatever number your beginning ch started with), turn your work.

Row two: ch 2 (counts as a turning ch and the first hdc), *sk st, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next st. Repeat from * to the end of the row (9 hdc v-stitches). There should be 2 sts left, sk st, hdc in last st, turn your work.

If you have been using the larger crochet hook for a loose tension, you can now change to the G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook for the rest of the pattern.

Row three: ch 2 (counts as a turning ch and the first hdc), *sk st (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch1 sp (hdc v-stitch from the previous row). Repeat from * 8 times (9 hdc v-stitches), sk st, hdc in the second ch of the ch2 from the previous row, turn your work.

Rows 4 to 120: Repeat row 3. This is the length I made the body of my scarf (58″ or 147 cm), but you can make the scarf any length you like! Just continue to repeat row 3 until you reach your desired length. I wanted to add tassels, which made the finished scarf 66″ (147 cm) in length. I am rather short, so this length was good for me. I was left with about 30 yards (27 m) of Bernat Premium yarn, so there was plenty left to make a longer scarf. Once you have the scarf as long as you like, you can finish off with the final row.

Final row: ch 1 (counts as turning ch), 1 sc in the first stitch from hook, 1 sc in next st, *sk st, 1 sc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The very last sc will be done in the second chain of the ch2 from the previous row. You will have 20 sc’s or whatever number your beginning chain was. Fasten off and darn in your tail ends.

At this point, you can be done! The pattern is so lovely as it is, but if you like you can add tassels on each end. You can put one or two strands in every stitch, or two or three strands in every other stitch, or three or four strands in every third stitch. That is what I did. Depending on how many stitches wide you’ve made your scarf, you will have to calculate the spacing, and in the case of this scarf (whether you do every other stitch or every third stitch), there will be an extra stitch leftover. In that case, just skip that extra stitch and put your tassel in the last stitch…you won’t even be able to tell.

Calculate how many strands of yarn you require based on the number of strands per tassel and the number of tassels required. I needed 42 strands altogether. Figure out how long you want your finished tassel (say 4 inches), double that, and add 1 inch for the wrap and for trimming. Each strand would need to be 9″ (or whatever length you want). Cut a cardboard jig 4.5″ high, and use that to wrap your yarn around to create multiple strands. Cut the wraps at the bottom of the jig…and there you go!

Bring together the number of strands you’ve decided on, fold them in half, and then place the crochet hook into the back of the first chain. Put the strands on the hook and pull them through the chain stitch. Even the ends out and bring them in through the loop and snug them up.

Repeat this process for every set of tassels and then use a straight edge to trim the ends. You can hand steam the scarf or wash it according to the yarn directions and lay it flat to dry. Then you are done! Isn’t that such an easy and beautiful pattern?

I hope you enjoyed this super easy crocheted scarf for beginners. I recently created a donate option for individuals who would like to contribute to this free content. You can find that here. Any donations are greatly appreciated! The video tutorial below will show you step by step how to crochet this pattern. Have fun and make several in all sorts of colors!

Some people have said that it is difficult to see the stitches in the YouTube tutorial because of the yarn color. I created another video showing how to do the stitch pattern itself as a remedy to this issue. I do apologize for the visual problems in the first video.

As some of you may know, my husband had a couple of strokes recently. Then he had a third (very small stroke) last weekend. While his recovery has been quite remarkable, the physical and emotional stress of all of this has taken its toll on me. I’ve also hit my head and have a mild concussion. As a result, my Central Sensitivity Disorder has flared up and I’m having a hard time creating content for my blog and YouTube channel. So, please bear with me as I share simple and infrequent content for now.

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You can see in the image above, a few samples of basic free-form crochet scrumbles. Yes, that is what the motifs are called in free-form crochet…scrumbles. I think that is such a fun name! Essentially, what this involves is using crochet to create fun and whimsical pieces of fabric. You can join the scrumbles to create a larger piece of fabric which can then be used to make all sorts of projects.

You can use scrumbles to embellish clothing, create pattern pieces for sweaters, jackets, hats, and bags. You can create afghans, pillows, wall hangings and so much more.

I have created a video tutorial to teach this technique because, while free-form crochet is easy, teaching the process is a bit involved and hard to describe with writing. In this introductory tutorial, I will show how you can use single, half-double, double, and treble crochets to create a basic scrumble.

I will show you how to build stitches to create different shapes, how to gauge your rounds so the fabric lays nice and flat, how to join new colors in a couple of different ways and a few more basic techniques. If you are new to crochet, then you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series to learn all the stitches used here in this tutorial.

Check out the video at the bottom of the blog to learn the basics of this amazing craft!

The supplies you will need are simple…just some yarn (this is great for using up bits and bobs), a crochet hook that is right for your yarn choice, a darning needle, and embroidery scissors. The other tool that is very helpful is a hand steamer. This helps to press the scrumbles with steam so they lay nice and flat.

You can work with any yarn you like, however, wool blends may have more integrity and longevity than synthetic blends. I would recommend staying with the same weight of yarn for the scrumbles, as mixing yarn weights can be a bit tricky.

I first discovered free-form crochet in a book I picked up at a used book sale called Illustrated Patchwork Crochet by Bella Scharf. The book was published in the mid-1970s and has some fun ideas in it (although some are rather dated). It is no longer in print, but it’s possible to find a copy second-hand. The image above shows an afghan made using free-form crochet and when I first saw this I was hooked!

I then found The Crochet Workbook by Sylvia Cosh and James Walters which was published in 1989. Fortunately, this book is still available and is a treasure trove of free-form crochet techniques and inspiration! I got both a soft copy and a hard copy of this book at another used book sale. I was so excited!

You can see above, my first attempts at creating scrumbles, and I think they turned out pretty good. But I quickly learned how to do a much better job and I even went on to play with more complex stitches to create some pretty funky scrumbles. I made a pillow with this fabric and I just love it!

I plan to create more free-form crochet tutorials showing more advanced techniques including various shapes to start with, spiral shapes, and some fun stitches. I will show how to join scrumbles together and how to ‘fill in’ the gaps between the motifs. Make sure to subscribe to both my newsletter and YouTube channel so you don’t miss out!

I hope you enjoy this tutorial and, like me, become hooked on this creative and liberating style of crochet!

Some of my favorite things!

Looen Crochet Hook Set

Highlife Hand Steamer

Aqueenly Embroidery Scissors

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

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It is important to use a natural fiber when making items that will have hot surfaces placed upon them. I am using a cotton yarn, which is a number four medium-weight yarn. One might get away with synthetic yarn for the coasters, but certainly not for the hot pad. This is a beginner-friendly pattern, but if you are new to crochet, I do recommend that you check out my Beginner Crochet Series to learn all the basics. I have also created a video tutorial that you can find at the bottom of this blog.

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Sugar and Cream/Bernat Handicrafter yarn, approximately 13 yards (12 meters) per coaster and 26 yards (24 meters) for each side of the hot pad. I used the following colors:
  • Sugar and Cream
    • Painted Desert
    • Tangerine
    • Blue Jeans
    • Wine
    • Country Red
  • Bernat Handicrafter
    • Jute
    • Sage Green
• 3.5 mm (E-4US) to 4 mm (G-6 US) crochet hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

The pattern for the hot pad is made with a total of five rounds of double crochets. The coasters are made by using the first three rounds of the hot pad. You will need two motifs for the hot pad, and of course, you can make as many coasters as you like! The coasters measure 4″ (10 cm) in diameter, and the hot pad measures 7.25″ (18.5 cm) when done.

Begin with a ch 4, join with a sl st to create a ring.

Round one: ch 3, 15 dc into the ring, join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of beg ch3 (16 dc incl beg ch3).

Round two: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in same st, *2 dc in next st. Repeat from * 14 times, join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of beg ch3 (32 dc incl beg ch3)

Round three: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in next st, *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from * 14 times (48 dc incl beg ch3).

For coasters, fasten off with an invisible stitch. The video shows how to do this. Cut a tail and thread onto a darning needle. Bring the needle in from behind through the V-stitch of the first dc after the ch3 stitch.

Form a ‘mock stitch’ by bringing the needle back down in between the V-stitch that the yarn is coming out from. Darn in the tail ends, and you are done! You can crochet as many coasters as you like.

For the hot pad, join round three with a sl st into the 3rd ch of beg ch3, and carry on with two more rounds.

Round four: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, *1 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st. Repeat from * 14 times, join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of beg ch3 (64 dc incl beg ch3)

Round five: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, *1 dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st. Repeat from * 19 times, 1 dc in the last st (85 dc incl beg ch3). Fasten off with the invisible stitch as shown for the coasters.

Crochet two motifs with five rounds for the hot pad, but finish just one of the motifs with the invisible stitch. For the second motif, join the last round with an sl st into the 3rd ch of the beg ch3, do not fasten off or cut the yarn! Darn in all the tail ends.

Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures from this point on, but all of the steps to join the two motifs together are shown in the video tutorial.

On the second motif, ch 1 and turn your work. The wrong side will be facing you. Place the first motif with the invisible finish on top with the right side facing you (wrong sides together). Bringing the crochet hook in from the front, pick up the top loop of each stitch on both the front and back motifs (going under 2 loops), bring the yarn from behind, and do 1 sc.

1 sc in the top loop of each motif all the way around, joining them together. If you want to create a loop to hang the hot pad, make 12 to 15 chains and join in the beg sc, then fasten off. Otherwise, finish this round with the same invisible finish as before, bringing the needle in from the back of the beg sc. Darn in the tail end.

And then you are done…you have just created a beautiful crocheted hot pad and coaster set! Isn’t this such an easy pattern? You can have a lot of fun, playing with different color combinations. The cotton yarn is machine washable, however, I would lay the hot pad and coasters flat to dry because the dryer can make the yarn look shabby.

I have created a video tutorial for your convenience and you can watch it here or pop over to YouTube.

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This easy crocheted headband can be made to fit any size head. You will just make the foundation chain long enough to fit whoever you are making it for, and the height (or depth) of the band can be any size you like! This is a simple two-row repeat using single crochets.

You can use up partial balls of yarn for the headband because it doesn’t require a lot of yarn. And because this pattern is made to fit any size head, you can use any size or weight of yarn you like. I am using a number 4 medium-weight yarn (also called worsted) from a previous project I made (the Lavender Fields Pocket Shawl).

Buy the downloadable PDF pattern from my Ravelry Store! Click here to go to the pattern

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Yarn of your choice
  • I’m using Bernat Premium yarn in Grand Purple (#4 medium weight and approximately 60-65 yards or 55-60 meters)
• Crochet hook (5 mm or H-8 for this yarn)
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand Steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

I have created basic written directions for the band below, but I also have a video tutorial that shows how to sew the band in such a way to create a pretty twisted design. If you are new to crochet, then you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series to learn all the basics!

You will start with a foundation chain that fits comfortably around your head. Mine was 19″ (47.5 cm) in length with 65 chains. Then you add one extra chain for the turning chain (66 chains).

Pattern:

Foundation chain of the desired length, plus one chain

Row one: 1 sc in the back bump of each chain stitch (65 sc), ch 1 turn (you can double check the fit at this point, you may have to unravel to add or subtract a few chain stitches).

Row two: 1 sc in the back loop (top stitch) of each stitch (65 sc), ch 1, turn.

Row three: 1 sc in the front loop (bottom stitch) of each stitch (65 sc), ch 1, turn.

Row four onward: Repeat rows two and three until the band is the desired depth. Finish the last row with the row two repeat. Mine was 14 rows in total with a finished depth of 4.5″ (11.5 cm). Unfortunately, I forgot to take photos at this point, but this is where you can go to the video tutorial to see how to sew the band together. This part of the tutorial begins at 9:45 in the video.

Buy the Downloadable PDF version of this pattern in my Ravelry Store. Just click here!

If you like this tutorial, then you may also like:

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The post Easy Crocheted Headband appeared first on Create and Crochet.

If you are new to crochet, then I do recommend my Beginner Crochet Series that teaches you all the basic crochet stitches and tips such as proper crochet tension. Once you have mastered the basics, then you will be able to learn how to crochet a man’s scarf! In this tutorial, you will learn how to do a front post double crochet, which is a magical way to use the double crochet stitch. The result is this beautifully textured fabric for the scarf.

While I am calling this a ‘man’s scarf’, because of the choice of yarn and the stitch pattern, this is actually a unisex scarf and would be lovely for both men and women. I am using a self-striping yarn, which really adds to the look of this scarf, but this design would look great with a solid color yarn as well.

At the time of publishing this post, the yarns I used may be hard to find. I got the Lion Brand yarn from Michaels Canada and the Bernat yarn from Walmart. I’ve given links to some possible suppliers on-line, but you may have to substitute different brands and/or colors.

You can crochet the scarf using just the textured stitch and leave it as is, or you can add a border around the scarf in a complementary color as shown above. You could also add tassels if you like! The scarf (without the border) measures 6.5″ (16 cm) by 70″ (178 cm). The border adds about 1″ (2.5 cm) to the width and length. You could make the scarf a bit longer if you like, it is totally up to you!

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Number 4 medium weight yarn (minimum 450 yards or 412 meters)
  • I used Lion Brand Ferris Wheel in Morning Java (this 3 pack would be enough to make a matching hat and gloves)
• Optional complimentary color (less than 50 yards or 46 meters)
  • I used Bernat Premium Dark Gray Heather
• Crochet hooks in size 6 mm (J-10) and optionally 6.5 mm (K 10.5) {I’m showing different hooks in the image below because I changed my mind after I started the project…frogged the yarn and started again}
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

You can see how beautiful this crochet stitch is, and it is created with a simple four-row pattern repeat. Once you get going on the pattern, it becomes very relaxing and meditative, and it crochets up quite quickly!

If you decide to add a crocheted border, you can pick out any color from the self-striping yarn that you like. I chose the dark grey and I happen to have the Bernat Premium yarn on hand in the perfect complementary color! But as I mentioned above, this scarf is quite lovely without the border and would look great with tassels…use your own creative inspiration!

I have created a step by step tutorial for you and you can watch it right here or pop over to YouTube and watch it there. Enjoy!

If you like this tutorial, then you may also like:

• Crochet Scarf for Beginners
• How to Crochet a Pocket Shawl: Easy Pattern
• Colorful Crocheted Scarf

Sharing is caring…click on the social share button and choose an image from below to share!

The post How to Crochet a Man’s Scarf: For Beginners appeared first on Create and Crochet.

If you are new to crochet, then you can check out my beginner crochet series where you will learn all the basics of crochet and everything you need to know to crochet this pocket shawl. The experience that is needed for this project is to have a good feel for tension. The ribbing is done in a tight tension and the body of the shawl is done using a loose tension. We do use two different crochet hook sizes to help with this as well.

I’m calling this the Lavender Fields Pocket Shawl because the yarn I used for this project is such a pretty color of lavender. I used the Bernat Premium Yarn in Grand Purple, but it isn’t available through Yarnspirations or anywhere online. I found mine at Michaels Canada, so perhaps you can find it locally. If not, you can use any number 4 medium weight yarn you like!

Buy this pattern (downloadable PDF file) in my Ravelry Store!

I put a link for the Bernat Super Saver yarn below in a similar color. This line isn’t quite as soft as the Premium yarn, but it does wash up really well, and the fabric becomes nice and soft after a couple of washes. The finished shawl is 12″ (30cm) by 64″ (162cm). This pattern is easy to adjust in width and length if desired.

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Number 4 medium weight yarn: 720 yards (658 m) (approximately)
• 4 mm (G-6) and 5.5 mm (I-9) crochet hooks
• Darning needle and stitch markers
• Scissors
• Hand Steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

I have created two video tutorials for this pocket shawl pattern, and you can find them below. The shawl is made by creating a long foundation chain and working a pattern of single crochets and double crochets. The pattern starts with 211 chains, resulting in a starting length of 60″ (152cm), based on my tension. The shawl does stretch out a bit by the time it is done, which left me with a finished length of 64″.

You can make this shawl any length you like. I am quite short (5’1″), so this length is good for me, but if you are taller, you may want to make the foundation chain longer. All you need to do is to add 1″ (2.5cm) of foundation chain for every additional inch of height. So, for example, if you are 5’8″, add another 7″ (18 cm) to the length of your foundation chain. Your foundation chain also needs to be an odd number of chains for the pattern repeat.

Buy this pattern (PDF download) from my Ravelry Store!

Check out the video tutorials below for all the details!

The ribbing is created using the 4 mm crochet hook and five rows of top loop single crochets. The body of the shawl is made using the 5.5 mm crochet hook and a double crochet, 2 together stitch (dc2tog). It works up so beautifully, but this is where you need to finesse the tension a bit.

In part one of this tutorial, I show you how to create the shawl itself. You can watch the tutorial here or pop over to YouTube and watch it there.

In Part Two of the tutorial, I show you how to make the pockets and then sew them onto the shawl. Again, you can watch it here or on YouTube.

If you like this tutorial, you may also like:

• Colorful Granny Square Blanket
• Easy Crochet Shawl
• Granny Square Tote Bag

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The post How to Crochet a Pocket Shawl ~ Easy Pattern appeared first on Create and Crochet.

I haven’t written a post for awhile, as I am still dealing with some health issues. For this post, I have video tutorials that will take you step by step through the entire project. Before you ask…there are no written directions for the pattern, and I do apologize for that. I simply didn’t have the energy to create the written content as well.

I have divided this project into four tutorials starting with the Vintage Lace Granny Square, then I have the construction of the bag, followed by a tutorial on how to hand sew the lining. This tutorial shows how to add pockets, which then makes this bag useful as a purse. The last tutorial is on how to attach the handles and I offer a few different possibilities for that.

The yarn I used for this project was a thrift store find, so I don’t have an actual brand to recommend, but here are the supplies you will need to make this beautiful Vintage Lace Crocheted Purse (or bag). The finished square is 5″ (12.5 cm) in diameter.

• Number 3 lightweight yarn (cotton would be a good choice)
• Cotton broadcloth or quilting fabric (quantity depends on the size of your finished bag)
• 4mm or G-6 crochet hook (or size suited for your choice of yarn)
• Purse Handles, bamboo handles, strapping and/or rings
• Scissors (embroidery)
• Scissors (fabric)
• Darning and sewing needles
• Sewing thread to match the color of yarn used for the granny squares
• Optional: Conair Hand Steamer

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

The first tutorial is for the Vintage Lace Granny Square which measures 5″ (12.5 cm) in diameter. You can either click on the image above to go to YouTube, or you can watch it here in the video below.

This is such a pretty pattern and I designed it as a tight pattern, so it would be well suited for a bag or purse.

The next tutorial is on how to make the actual bag by laying out the squares in a specific way and then sewing them together. I offer two options to make the bag in the size shown here or to make it a bit bigger. This bag uses 13 granny squares and the larger version uses 15 granny squares. You can watch this tutorial on YouTube or watch it here in the video below.

The third tutorial shows you how you can make the lining for the bag. This is an option, but I think it is a very good idea because a crocheted bag simply doesn’t have the strength or integrity to hold anything unless it is lined.

I show you how you can make the lining and add pockets, using a hand sewing technique, so a sewing machine is not required! If you do have a sewing machine, then you can check out my tutorial on how to make a more heavy-duty lining here.

To see the hand-sewn lining tutorial, just click on the image above to go to YouTube or watch it here on the video below.

Now the last tutorial is on how to add handles to this project. Between the lining with pockets and these very cool handles, this bag is definitely upgraded to a purse. While I show you a few different options to add handles, the option I use with the clip-on handles is so much fun!

The clip-on handles can be attached, as shown above, facing the front, or from side to side. When attached in that way, the purse has more of a square look and it can be worn on your back like a pack! Very cool! Click on the image to see the tutorial on YouTube or watch it here on the video below!

I hope you enjoy these tutorials, and again, I do apologize for not having written directions. Please share this post by clicking on the social share button and choosing an image from below.

If you liked this tutorial, then you may also like:

• Granny Square Tote Bag
• How to Crochet a Granny Square Blanket for Beginners
• Crochet and Beaded Bracelet

The post Vintage Lace Crocheted Purse appeared first on Create and Crochet.

While the instructions for this tutorial are for a bracelet, you can use the crochet and beaded technique to make a choker or an anklet! You can make the bracelet with any combination of cotton thread and colored beads you like.

I have created a video tutorial for the crocheted and beaded bracelet as well and you will find that at the bottom of this post!

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Cotton thread in your choice of color or size:
  • Aunt Lydia’s Gold Metalic 10 thread
  • Aunt Lydia’s Bridal White Cotton 3 thread
• Number 6 glass beads in colors of your choice:
  • Metalic and assorted
  • Silver lined assorted
• Larger glass bead for the clasp
• 2mm or 2.5mm crochet hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Craft or fabric glue

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Start by applying glue to the top one or two inches of the crochet cotton and let it dry completely. This will create a nice firm tip to thread the beads on to. When the tip has dried, thread on the beads. You will use approximately three beads for every 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the bracelet.

Measure how long your bracelet will be by wrapping the cotton yarn around your wrist for as many wraps you want. The length of my bracelet with 2 wraps was 12 inches (30 cm). I needed 36 beads, so I threaded on about 50…just to make sure. It’s better to have too many beads than not enough!

Once you have threaded on all your beads, thread on the clasp bead, then one small bead. Then bring the thread back down through the clasp bead, leaving about a 6 inch (15 cm) tail. Tie a square knot on the bottom side of the bead

Place both threads over the crochet hook and wrap them back around themselves to create a loop and create a chain stitch. If you are new to crochet then you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series to learn all the stitches you need for this project.

Make 3 more chains with 2 strands of thread for a total of 4 chains. Drop the tail thread and continue to make a row of chain stitches to equal the length required for your bracelet (the length includes the first 4 chains).

You don’t have to count the chain stitches, just check the length of your chain to fit around your wrist comfortably. For reference, I did another 65 chains to make my length 12 inches in total.

To create a loop for the clasp bead, make an additional 5 to 8 chains. This will vary depending on the size of your bead. I needed 7 chains to fit around my bead. Slip stitch back into the first chain you made for your loop (for me that was the 7th chain from my hook). Chain one and snug that up nice and tight to secure the loop. Try the bead to make sure it fits.

Make one single crochet in the top loop of the next stitch. Bring a bead up the thread and snug it up to that single crochet. Make one single crochet around the bead, working into the top loop of the next stitch. Let the bead drop to the back of your work.

Make one single crochet in the top loop of the next stitch, then bring another bead up the thread and snug it up to that single crochet. Make one single crochet around the bead as before. Continue to alternate one single crochet, with one beaded single crochet until you get to the other side of the bracelet.

Slip stitch into the first chain with the double strands and chain one to fasten off. Darn in the tail ends and dab a small amount of glue on the cut ends for extra security.

Your bracelet is done! Wasn’t that so easy!

Make sure to check out my video tutorial on YouTube. The step-by-step instructions will help with any questions or uncertainties you may have.

If you liked this tutorial, you may also like:

• Crocheted Rocks and Round Things
• Boho Ribbon Necklace Tutorial
• Wire Wrapped Bracelet Tutorial

The post Crocheted and Beaded Bracelet appeared first on Create and Crochet.

As I mentioned in the post for the crocheted hat, I bought my yarn at Michael’s, but it is also available directly through Lion Brand or Amazon. The scarf can be made with just one ball of yarn, but if you want to do tassels, you will need some extra yarn. The hat pattern doesn’t use a whole ball of yarn, so the extra from that project could be used for the tassels.

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

This is a very easy pattern and all you need to know is how to do a chain stitch (ch) and a half-double crochet stitch (hdc). If you are new to crochet, you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series for the basics. I have also created a video tutorial for this project and you can find that at the bottom of the post.

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• 1 ball of Lion Brand Ferris Wheel yarn in Vintage Carousel {or equivalent choice…this ball of yarn is 3oz (85gm) with 270 yards (247 meters), with an option of an extra 14 yards or 13 meters for tassels}
• 4mm (G-6) crochet hook
• Scissors
• Darning Needle
• 1 stitch marker (optional)

This yarn is a number 4 medium weight acrylic yarn. You can use any type of yarn you like, just make your beginning row of chain stitches 5.5 inches or 14 cm in length.

Foundation Chain: Ch 21 or the length recommended above. If you want to do tassels, then make sure you have an odd number of chain stitches.

Row one: Ch 2, sk 2 sts, 1 hdc in top loop of next st (3rd st from hook). *1 hdc in top loop of next st. Repeat from * to the end of the row (21 sts), ch 1, turn your work.

Row two: Sk turning chain, 1 hdc under both loops of next st. *1 hdc under the top loop of next st. Repeat from * to 2nd from the last st in the row (18 sts). 1 hdc under both loops of the last st (total 21 sts), ch 1, turn your work.

Row three: Sk turning ch, *1 hdc under both loops of next st. Repeat from * to end of row (20 more sts to equal 21 sts), ch 1, turn your work.

Make sure to count your stitches every now and then to keep on track. It can be easy to miss the very last stitch of the row. You can use a stitch marker to keep track of this new stitch pattern.

Row four: Repeat row three.

Row five and six: Repeat row two.

So that is your pattern, repeat row two, twice (with 1 hdc under the top loop only with the first and last stitch going under both loops), and repeat row three, twice (with 1 hdc going under both loops of all the stitches). The stitch marker is handy to keep track of which pattern repeat you are on. Carry on until you’ve used the whole ball of yarn. The final length of the scarf should be 60 inches or 152 cm.

I forgot to take a photo of the scarf as I was crocheting it, so the image above is after it is done. I often do that with the photos for the blog posts. I always film the segment, but then realize after I’m done, I’ve forgotten to take the photos for the written post!

If you want to do tassels, you will need about 14 yards or 13 meters of yarn. You can save this amount from your ball of yarn, or…if you do the crochet hat as well, you will have enough yarn left from that project to make the tassels (and a pom-pom for the hat too!)

14 yards will give you 22 sets of 3 tassels altogether (11 tassels for each end). I cut mine 8 inches or 21 cm long. You can make a simple jig by cutting a piece of cardboard 4 inches or 10 cm wide and wrap the yarn around that. Cut the yarn at one end and you’ll have 8 inch long strands.

Take 3 strands at a time, fold them in half, and use the crochet hook to pull the strands under 2 loops of the stitches on each end of the scarf. Make a simple loop to fasten the tassels on. Put one set of tassels in every second stitch. Trim the ends and you are done!!

Well, almost done :0) You may want to block your scarf, and to do so, you can either steam it and hand press it, or wash it in cold water and lay it flat to dry, hand pressing it as well. After blocking my scarf, the actual scarf finished at 61 inches (154.5 cm), and with the tassels, the total length was 68 inches (173 cm). Isn’t it pretty!!!

I have created a video tutorial as well!

If you like this tutorial, you may also like:

The post Crochet Scarf for Beginners appeared first on Create and Crochet.

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

While I recommend Patons Canadiana acrylic yarn for this project, you can use any number 4 worsted yarn you like. The buttons I used were hand-made by a local artisan, Lavender Lampworks and Pottery, and I must say…funky buttons make all the difference! I’m not sure if she does online orders, but you can see her work with the above link. Perhaps you have a local artisan who can make something similar? If not, I’ve offered a link below for some nice wooden buttons in a suitable size.

If you are new to crochet, you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series for some of the basics. There are a couple of stitches here that are not part of that series, but once you know the basics, these new stitches will be easy to do. Also, I have a video tutorial to go along with this project and you can find that at the bottom of this post.

Gauge and Supplies

• Gauge: 9 stitches = 2″ (5cm)
• Finished size = 26″ x 5.25″ (68cm x 13.5cm)
• Crochet hook 4mm or G-6 US to equal gauge
• Yarn: Medium 4 worsted acrylic yarn (less than 200 yds or 185 m)
• The colors shown here are:
  • Burgundy
  • Pale Grey Mix
• Scissors
• 3 buttons- 1.25″ (3cm) to 1.75″ (4.5cm)
• Darning needle

Stitches Required:

• Chain Stitch: ch
• Single Crochet: sc
• Double Crochet: dc
• Foundation Double Crochet: fdc (see special directions below)
• Front Post Double Crochet: fpdc (see special directions below)

Special Directions:

Foundation Double Crochet (fdc)

(Images included below) Start with a slip knot and chain 4. Yarn over (yo) and insert hook into the 4th ch from hook (making sure to go underneath the top and back legs…this counts as the first stitch). Yo, pull up 1 loop (making 3 loops on your hook). Yo and pull through 1 loop only. This creates the first ‘chain’. Yo, pull through 2 loops. Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops to finish off the double crochet.

You’ve created your first foundation double crochet stitch!

Next stitch: Yo, insert hook into 2 legs of the ‘chain’ you just created at the bottom of the previous stitch (obvious ‘V’ shape). Yo, pull up a loop (making 3 loops on your hook) yo, pull through 1 loop only (creating the first chain). Yo, pull through 2 loops. Yo, pull through remaining 2 loops to finish off double crochet.

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)

(See image below fdc images) Yo, insert hook behind the post of the sc of the previous row, yo, pull loop behind sc post, and complete dc.

Let’s get started!

Row 1: Ch4, yo, put hook through 2 legs of the beginning ch of ch 4 *1Fdc. Repeat from * 23 times to equal 25 stitches. Ch1, turn your work.

You can make your cowl wider at this point by adding more fdc stitches. The pattern repeat requires an odd amount of stitches.

Row 2: 1sc in first st, ch1, skip a stitch, *1sc in next st, ch1, sk st. Repeat from * to end of row. Finish with 1sc in the last stitch of the previous row. Ch1, turn your work.

Row 3: 1dc in first st, *1 dc in next ch 1 sp, 1fpdc behind sc from the previous row (see special directions). Repeat from* to end of row. Finish with 1dc in the last sc of the previous row. Ch1, turn.

Rows 4 to 73: Repeat rows 2 and 3.

Once you’ve reached row 73, check the fit of your cowl. Place it around your neck like shown below so it fits comfortably. You want to leave about 1″ (2.5cm) overlap for the buttonholes. If you need to make the cowl larger, repeat rows 2 and 3 again until you have your desired fit. Ch1, turn your work.

For the buttonholes: next row: 1sc in next 3 sts, ch3, sk 3 sts, *1sc in next 5 sts, ch3, sk 3 sts. Repeat from * one more time, 1sc in next 3 sts. Ch1, turn.

Last row: 1dc in each st, with 3dc in ch 3 sp. Fasten off and darn in all ends.

Lay your finished cowl wrong side up with the buttonholes on the left and the beginning fdc row on the right. Bring the right side over at an angle to the center and then bring the left side over top, lining up the edges of the cowl.

Sew your buttons in place and you are done! Isn’t this so pretty!

And for your convenience, I have also created a video tutorial!

If you choose to watch this tutorial, I must apologize for a sound issue. The segment where I am on screen is very quiet because I was using different equipment. Other than that…it’s a good tutorial!

If you like this tutorial, you may also like:

• How to Crochet a Small Granny Square Blanket
• Easy Crochet Pouch for Beginners
• Crochet a Bohemian Scarf
• Crochet a Bohemian Hat

Sharing is caring! Click on the Share Button and pick an image to share!

The post Easy Crochet Cowl~For Beginners appeared first on Create and Crochet.

The tutorial is divided into two parts, and in part one, I will show you how to construct the actual bag. In part two we will create the lining and attach the handles.

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Assorted colors of number 4, worsted weight yarn (I used 9 colors), plus one accent color
• 3.5mm (E-4 US) crochet hook
• 1/2 a meter or yard of fabric for lining
• 1 and 1/2 meters or yards of strapping for the handles (about 1″ or 2.5cm wide)
• Stitch markers
• Scissors
• Darning needle
• You can get the hooks, stitch markers, and darning needles all together in this nice kit.

You will need a total of 27 granny squares made with 3 rounds. I have a video tutorial here if you are new to crochet. I recommend using a ‘chain 2’ in each corner of the squares, rather than a ‘chain 3’ which is commonly used.

I have revised my granny square pattern, so the written pattern is slightly different from the video tutorial. Either method of making granny squares is fine, and you can also use any other granny square pattern you like in place of the traditional granny square.

Traditional Granny Square Pattern

Round one: ch 5, sl st into the first ch to create a ring. Ch 2 (counts as middle dc), 1 dc into the ring, ch 2, *[3 dc, ch 2] into the ring. Repeat from * 2 times. 1 dc into the ring (this completes the first 3dc cluster for a total of four 3dc clusters). Sk 2 ch’s, join with a sl st into the top of the first dc and fasten off.

Round two: Join new color into a ch2 sp with a sl st, [ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp. Repeat from * 2 times, 1 dc into the beg ch2 sp. Sk 2 ch’s, join with a sl st into the top of the first dc, and fasten off.

Round three: Join new color into a ch2 sp with a sl st, [ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 2 times, 1 dc into the beg ch2 sp. Sk 2 ch’s, join with a sl st into the top of the first dc and fasten off. Fasten off this last round with an invisible stitch as shown in the above video tutorial at 17:23.

The images above and below show you how to lay out the granny squares. You will need 2 panels with 9 squares in each panel, and then a long strip of 9 squares. I used 9 different colors so I wouldn’t have any 2 colors beside each other in the design. You could do any combination you like.

While this is an easy project to do, the instructions are quite involved, so rather than writing out all the details, I’ve created a video tutorial. It will be much easier to follow than written directions. You can check it out below!

And when you are done, your bag will look something like this! (I’ve just pinned the handles on the bag for now). So in part two, we will make the lining and attach the handles. See you there!

If you like this tutorial, you may also like:

• How to Crochet a Granny Square Blanket
• How to Crochet a Bohemian Scarf
• How to Crochet a Bohemian Hat

Here is a granny square bag made by one of my lovely, creative followers. I love the color combination she used and the lining is such a perfect color match too!

Thank you Jamie for sharing this!

The post Granny Square Tote Bag: Part One appeared first on Create and Crochet.

Join me for this easy and fun crochet project to learn how to crochet a granny square blanket. This tutorial is suited for beginners as the blanket is simply one big granny square, made from a single cake of yarn. It measures 27″ by 27″ (69 cm by 69cm), although you could carry on with another cake of yarn and make the blanket even bigger. This size is perfect for a baby blanket or a lap blanket.

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

For this project, I am using Caron Cotton Cakes ‘Sunset Dreams’ yarn, but it is no longer available. Here is a different option… Caron Jumbo Ombre Yarn in Baby Rainbow. There is the equivalent of 2 balls of yarn here with a total of 595 yards or 544 meters. This ball is larger than the Cotton Cakes, so the blanket should crochet up a bit larger than the one I show here.

The Cotton Cakes is a number 4 medium worsted weight yarn, 60% cotton, and 40% acrylic. The recommended hook size is US H/8 or 5mm, but I’m using a US 7 or 4.5mm hook because I tend to crochet with very loose tension. The Caron Jumbo Ombre is also a number 4 medium weight yarn, but it is 100% acrylic. The same recommendations for the hook size apply to this yarn too.

If you are new to crochet, make sure to check out my Beginner Crochet Series Blog that has 2 video tutorials to show you everything you need to know to make this pretty blanket! I’ve also created a step by step video tutorial for this pattern, so you can follow along with that if you like! You will find it at the bottom of this post.

To begin, ch 5, join with sl st to first ch to form a ring.
1st rnd: Ch 6, *3 dc in ring, ch3, rep from * 2 times in ring, 2 dc in ring, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 6. (Four groups of 3 dc, ch-3 sps in total).

2nd rnd: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 6, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp, *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp. Rep from * twice more, ch 1, 2 dc in first ch-3 sp, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 6.

3rd rnd: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 6, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp. Rep from * twice more. Ch 1, 2 dc in first ch-3 sp, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 6.

4th rnd: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 6, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp. Rep from * twice more. Ch 1, 2 dc in first ch-3 sp, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 6.

Continue with this same pattern, adding one more dc cluster (3 dc, ch 1) to each side of each consecutive round until all the yarn is used. You could also create a border for the last round by doing a row of double crochet. (see below)

I completed 24 rounds altogether and had enough yarn left to do either one more round with the granny square pattern or do a border with double crochet. I chose to finish my blanket with the double crochet.

Final rnd: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, *1 dc in top of next dc. Rep from * to next ch3 sp. *3 dc in ch3 sp, 1 dc in top of next dc’s to next ch3 space. Repeat from * all around, fasten off.

As I came into the second corner, I had completed two sides of the blanket with yellow. I had enough yellow to go about halfway around the third side, but I decided to cut the yarn and join the pink with a magic knot so I would end up with two sides in yellow and two sides in pink. This is totally up to you, but I show you how to do a magic knot in the video tutorial.

Once you have finished making your blanket, darn in the ends. You can “block” the blanket by washing it in a gentle cycle (follow the manufacturer’s recommendations), and then lay it out flat on a towel to dry. Gently shape the blanket with your hands into a nice square shape.

Enjoy your new creation or give it as a gift! Check out the video tutorial below if you want to follow along step by step. And please share this post with your friends!

Update!

I have noticed a common problem with granny square blankets that are worked in continuous rounds, which is that the blanket sometimes becomes warped and wonky. This question comes up often in some of the crochet Facebook groups I’m in, and also from some of my followers. The problem, if this happens, is caused by tight tension. This can be caused by technique, by the type of yarn used, or by both! I created a video tutorial that explains this a bit more and offers an easy solution.

If you like this tutorial, then you may also like:

• Rectangle Granny Square Blanket
• Ferris Wheel Scarf: Part One (the granny square)
• Ferris Wheel Scarf: Part Two (the scarf assembly)

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