I am using tan as a neutral color, but you could use any neutral you like such as cream, black or grey. You could also work without a neutral and just use up all your scrap yarn in a random design. If you are new to crochet, make sure to check out my Beginner Crochet Series.

When I create patterns, I make a lot of test pieces. As a result, I had quite a stash of partially made pieces and test swatches. It was a big ugly mess!

I sorted the mess out and kept any granny squares I had, reducing some of them to two rounds. I had quite a few with two rounds and some with just one round. I decided to use these in my design and created two panels for each end of the scarf, using nine squares of two rounds each. I unraveled all the other samples and used them for the center panel of the scarf, which I made using the half double crochet v-stitch. All the yarn is a number 4 medium-weight yarn.

I give these details in the video tutorial, including the hook sizes I use for the center panel which was a 5 mm (I-9) for the foundation chain and row one, then a 4 mm (H-6) for the v-stitch pattern.

The result was a very fun and funky ‘scrappy scarf’. In the video tutorial below for this project, I show you how I used a variety of elements to create this Crocheted Stash Buster Scarf along with a few extra tips. All the tutorials I refer to can be found in this blog post. I also have an entire playlist on my YouTube channel with several scarf patterns. You could use any of those tutorials for a stash buster scarf as well!

This is the tutorial on how to crochet a basic granny square. You can do two rounds, as I did, or make larger squares…it’s up to you! Be creative and playful!

I used the half double crochet v-stitch for the center section, but you could use any stitch pattern you like. I have another stitch pattern at the bottom of this blog for the straight granny square stitch that would be perfect with the granny squares!

You can join your scrap pieces of yarn together using the magic knot, which I show how to do in the video above, or you can join as you go which I demonstrate in the Crocheted Stash Buster Scarf tutorial.

I use the whip stitch to join the granny squares together and to sew the granny square panels to the center panel of the scarf, but you can use any joining technique you like.

If you want to add tassels to your scarf, check out the video above “Super Easy Crocheted Scarf for Beginners” and go to the 14:40 mark to see how tassels are done. This scarf pattern also uses the half-double crochet v-stitch pattern.

The above tutorial for the Granny Stitch in rows would be so perfect to use in this project. I love that crochet is so flexible. You can take the ideas I share here and make your own pattern for a scarf, using your stash of scrap yarn.

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I chose this self-striping yarn by Lion Brand because the shades of denim colors were perfect for a unisex design. The pattern does not have tassels, but I have included a video below for my Easiest Crocheted Scarf Pattern that shows how to do tassels, so you can check that out if desired. I do not have a written pattern for the Easy Crocheted Unisex Scarf, but there is a step-by-step video tutorial below.

The scarf finished at 6.5″ by 70″, and for that, I needed an extra ball of yarn. The yarn I used (shown below on the supply list) made the scarf only 60″ long, therefore, a second ball of yarn was needed. There is enough yarn left over to make a matching Beanie and even a pair of mittens.

Supply List

• Lion Brand Mandala Ombre Yarn (5.3oz & 344yd per ball) 2 balls (or any number 4 medium-weight yarn of your choice)
  • Color is Harmony
• 4 mm (G-6) crochet hook (or size to match your choice of yarn)
• Scissors
• Darning needle

I no longer affiliate with Amazon, but if you are looking for this yarn online, you can check out Yarn Canada, Michaels, or Lion Brand USA.

In the video tutorial, I will be demonstrating with a plain color yarn because this self-striping yarn from Lion Brand is also variegated and it is impossible to see on camera! The solid yarn also shows the stitch pattern nicely.

Above is a video tutorial for a simple scarf pattern. Go to 14:40 in the video to see how to do tassels. This is a great scarf pattern too!

Above is a video tutorial for the matching Beanie. Because the Lion Brand yarn is a bit on the fine side, I had to adjust the pattern slightly. For the ‘youth/ladies small’ size, I used the stitch pattern for the grey yarn, but I repeated round six, adding an extra round of increases. I made the hat with a total of twelve rounds and then made the band a bit deeper. Rather than making the band with a chain three, I did a chain six (not including the turning chain). The Beanie pattern is very adaptable, either by adding extra rounds or making the band a different depth. Be playful!

And above is a video tutorial for super easy mittens and there would be enough yarn left over to make a pair of these as well! I hope you enjoy this Easy Crocheted Unisex Scarf and make lots for gifts!

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I crocheted a matching beanie to go with this scarf pattern, and I used my “Super Easy Crocheted Beanie Pattern” for this hat. The pattern has instructions for both a bulky yarn and a number four-medium weight yarn, the latter being what I’ve used for this scarf pattern. Rather than crocheting in continuous rounds with one color of yarn, I fastened off each round and joined on a new color. You can see the color scheme I used below.

The Large TOG Granny Square Pattern can be found here, which includes a supply list. I will copy the supply list below as well for your convenience.

Supply List

• Number 4 medium weight (worsted weight) yarn of your choice. I am using:
  • Bernat Premium yarn in Burgundy, Spring Green, Golden Wheat, Chili, and Caramel
• 4.5 mm (7US), or 4mm (G-6US) crochet hook (or size of your choice)
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand-steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

The Easy Granny Square Scarf is made using twelve granny squares (three of each color scheme shown above) which are 6″ in diameter. Once sewn together and a border added, the scarf finishes at 7.5″ by 78″. Each square will use approximately 30 yards of yarn, and each round for the border will use about 35 yards. So the total yardage used for this scarf (based on my tension, the size of squares, and the Large TOG Granny Square pattern) was about 475 yards. I recommend blocking the squares before you sew them together.

While I used five different fall colors in this Easy Granny Square Scarf, I made only four different color combinations for the granny squares. I intentionally left the Caramel color out of the last round in order to have a color for the border that would be different for all four squares. This helps to frame all the different colors. You can create any color combination you like, but I do recommend using the same idea as I used here. Also, when you lay the colors out, alternate any dark or light colors you have so you don’t have all the dark colors in line and then all the light colors beside each other. See how I did the yellow, burgundy, green, and chai above.

You can join the squares using any technique you like, but I really love joining with the whip stitch in the top loops only (also called the back loops), because this stitch creates a lovely frame around the square.

Begin by cutting a length of yarn three times the length of the granny square. Using the color of the top square, join the yarn on the back, leaving a bit of the tail to darn in later. Bring the needle up through the back of the middle chain of the corner chain three, passing through the top loop only (the one facing the other square).

Then bring the needle down into the lower square and pass it through the front of the top loop of the middle chain of the corner chain three. Bring the needle through the back of the top loop of the next stitch on the square above.

Come back down through the front of the top loop of the next stitch of the lower square and bring the needle up under the top loop of the upper square. Continue to whip-stitch the squares together until you get to the middle chain of the chain three space of the upper square.

Your last stitch will be done by going down into the middle chain of the chain three space of the lower square. Darn in your tail ends and move on to the next square. Change your color of yarn as you go, using the color of the upper square.

Once you’ve sewn all your granny squares together, the next step is to crochet the border around the Easy Granny Square Scarf. You could put tassels on instead, or use a different border pattern…be playful and creative!

The Border Pattern

For this stitch, we will be crocheting into the back loop and back bump of each stitch. This will continue with the same “framing” look of the granny squares whip-stitched together.

Round One (Caramel): Join into any stitch (back loop and back bump) with a sc, ch 1, *sk st, 1 sc, ch 1 in next st. Repeat from * to corner. [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc, ch 1] in ch3 sp (corner made). *sk st, 1 sc, ch 1 in next stitch. Repeat this stitch along all four sides of the scarf, using the corner pattern as directed.

This first round is a bit tricky because you are working into the sides of the granny squares and sometimes into the whip stitch seam. Do your best to skip one stitch as you go, which may include skipping the whip stitch seam or crocheting into it. As you come to the corner, you may have to chain 2 to make it into the corner or have a single crochet just before. This will take some figuring on your part, so do the best you can. Round two is much easier!

Round Two (Spring Green): Join into any ch1 sp with a sc, ch 1, *sk st, 1 sc, ch 1 in the next ch1 sp. Repeat from * to the corner. [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc, ch 1] in ch2 sp (corner made). *sk st, 1 sc, ch 1 in the next ch1 sp. Repeat this stitch along all four sides of the scarf, using the corner pattern as directed.

Round Three (Chia): Repeat round two

You can repeat round two as often as you like, using more colors…it’s up to you! I stopped at three rounds and I really love how it looks. The matching beanie is perfect!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern for my Easy Granny Square Scarf. I love to encourage the modification of the patterns I share. Use a different granny square pattern…use smaller squares, and crochet more rounds of the border…use a different color palate, maybe go with just one color and add tassels. Be playful and have fun, the wonderful thing about crochet is that you can always unravel and try again!

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I generally do beginner-friendly patterns, but this pattern is more advanced, so I don’t recommend it if you are just starting out. I have lots of patterns for beginners and I also have my Beginner Crochet Series.

The Crocheted Vintage Rose Lace Scarf measures 6.5″ by 64″ (50″ of the length is the pattern and 14″ are the tassels). I wanted this as an accent scarf and didn’t want to wrap it around my neck, so I made it shorter than usual. You can make the body of the scarf any length you like and the same with the tassels. It even looks nice without tassels. The yardage supplied for this pattern is based on the size I made, which is 110 rows. If you want to make it longer, add about 4.75 yards per additional 2 rows.

Supply List

• 285 to 300 yards of any number 1 super fine yarn or number 3 cotton thread
  • Michael’s Loops and Threads Woolike Rose (in Canada)
  • Estako Royal Cotton Yarn Baby Pink
  • Threadart Cotton Thread (size 3) Light Pink
• 2mm (B) to 2.5mm (C) crochet hook
• Darning needle
• Hand Steamer (optional)
• Jig for tassels (see video below for tutorial on tassels)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Abbreviations and Guage

• ch = chain
• sp = sp
• sts = stitches
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• trc = treble crochet
• sk = skip

Guage: 4″ = 32 sts, 8 rows = 4″

This Crocheted Vintage Rose Lace Scarf pattern is a 4-row repeat and I don’t usually make charts, but I found this pattern hard to remember (especially the row 2 and 4 repeats…I kept getting them mixed up), so I drew this chart for myself. I thought I might as well share it here in case some of you have as much brain fog as I do! It is not downloadable, but you are welcome to right-click and save the picture for your convenience. I colored each row… the foundation chain is brown, row 1 is green, row 2 is red, row 3 is yellow, and row 4 is blue.

This pattern has a multiple of 10 plus 7, so your foundation chain can be 37, 47, 57, or whatever you like, depending on how wide you want to make the scarf. This Vintage Rose Lace Scarf is made with a foundation chain of 47 chains. The video tutorial and images below are made with a foundation chain of 27 chains and with a number 4 medium-weight yarn so the stitches are easier to see.

Row one: ch 47, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 4ch, [1 trc, ch 2, 4 times, 1 trc, ch 1] in the next (5th) ch1 sp, sk 4ch, 1 sc, ch 1 in next (5th) ch1 sp. Repeat from * until 3 ch left. [1 trc, ch 2, twice, 1 trc] in the last ch, turn your work.

Row two: ch 1, 1 sc in the first trc, *ch 3, sk the next ch2 sp, 1 dc in next ch2 sp, ch 2, sk the next ch1 sp, sc, and ch1 sp (to the 2nd sp of the next fan), 1 dc in the next ch2 sp, ch 3, sk next ch2 sp, 1 sc in the top of the middle trc of fan. Repeat from * to the last dc in 2nd to last ch2 sp of the last fan, ch 1, 1 trc in sc from the previous row, turn your work.

Row three: ch 6 (counts as a trc, ch2), [1 trc, ch 2, 1 trc, ch 1] in 1st ch1 sp, sk ch3 sp, 1 sc, ch 1 in next sc, *sk next ch3 sp and dc, [1 trc, ch 2, 4 times, 1 trc, ch 1] in next ch2 sp, sk dc and next ch3 sp, 1 sc, ch 1 in next sc. Repeat from * to the end of the row, turn your work.

Note: ch1 from the last stitch will actually be the 1st ch of the next row.

Row four: ch 5 (total is ch 6, including ch1 from the end of row 3), sk ch1 sp, *1 dc in next ch2 sp, ch 3, sk the next ch2 sp, 1 sc in the top of the middle trc of the fan, ch 3, sk the next ch2 sp, 1 dc in next ch2 sp, ch 2, sk the next ch1 sp, sc, and ch1 sp (to the 2nd sp of the next fan). Repeat from * to the last half of the fan, 1 dc in the next ch2 sp, ch 3, 1 sc in the 4th ch of beg ch 6 from the previous row, and turn your work.

Row five: ch 1, 1 sc in sc from previous row, ch 1, *sk ch3 sp, [1 trc, ch 2, 4 times, 1 trc, ch 1] in next ch2 sp, sk next ch3 sp, 1 sc, ch 1 in next sc. Repeat from * to last sc of row, sk next ch3 sp, [1 trc, ch 2, twice, 1 trc] in last ch6 sp, turn your work.

Row six: Repeat row 2

For the rest of the Crocheted Vintage Rose Lace Scarf pattern, repeat rows 2 through 5 until you have the scarf to the length you desire. My scarf was a total of 110 rows, with the body being 50 inches in length. If you want to wrap the scarf around your neck, then you would want to add at least another 12 to 16 inches. Finish with a row 2 or row 4 repeat (the straight rows) and fasten off. Add tassels if desired…I made 3 strands 16 inches long (using an 8-inch jig) and placed them in every third stitch. Once trimmed, they finished at 7 inches on each side, so my scarf was a total of 64 inches in length and 6 inches in width.

I’m not showing how to do tassels in this tutorial, but you can check out the tutorial below for my “Simple Crochet Scarf for Beginners” to see how to make them. It starts at 16:00 in the video and I will show all the steps required to measure, calculate, make, and attach tassels. Enjoy!

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In this blog post, I will share a couple of tutorials for cowl patterns. As this is a tutorial on how to turn any crocheted scarf pattern into a cowl, I will share some of my scarf patterns as well! If you are new to crocheting, then make sure to check out my Beginner Crochet Series to learn all the basics of crocheting.

There is no written pattern for this tutorial because every scarf pattern will be a little different, but I do teach you how to figure out where to place the buttons and button holes. Please forgive some of the audio in this video tutorial as it is the first time I have not done a voice-over for the instructions. (I’m trying to make editing a bit easier)

The above tutorial is for one of the cowl patterns I referred to in this new video. You can watch this video or check out the blog post and written pattern here.

Here is the second cowl pattern I showed in the tutorial on how to turn any crocheted scarf pattern into a cowl. The above cowl pattern shows you all the steps required to make this lovely garment, so no calculations are required. The blog post with more information is here.

The above scarf pattern would be a perfect pattern to use to make into a cowl and the written pattern and blog post are available here. This is a revised version of an older pattern which you can find here. The older pattern is also available to purchase on Ravelry as a downloadable PDF.

My Hugs and Kisses Scarf pattern would be super fun to make into a cowl pattern. The written pattern and blog are available here.

Ooohhh, and the above scarf pattern would be so lovely as well! When I created this tutorial, the stitch pattern was a bit hard to see, so I did create a second tutorial with a lighter color yarn (and had the camera better focused), that shows the stitch pattern more clearly. If you have problems, make sure to check that out too which is in the written pattern and blog post. The above pattern is also available in my Ravelry shop.

So, I actually have quite a few crocheted scarf patterns you could check out. Here is my Playlist from YouTube for all my crocheted hats and scarves. I always have a link to a blog post below each video tutorial with more information. It can be a bit hard to find on a smartphone or tablet, so you want to look for the … more link that is just below the title of the video.

So there you go! Have fun, be fearless, and be creative!

The post Turn any Crocheted Scarf Pattern into a Cowl appeared first on Create and Crochet.

In this revised beginner-friendly crocheted scarf pattern, I begin and finish the pattern with a different stitch. This is to create a nice finish on both ends of the scarf. In both patterns, I use a number four medium-weight (worsted weight) yarn, but the yarn I use in this pattern by Bernat is heavier than the Lion Brand yarn I used before. Because the yarn is heavier, I am also using a larger hook. The result is that this pattern, using the exact same number of chains for the foundation chain, finishes with a width of 7″ (18 cm), rather than the 5.5″ (14 cm) in the original pattern. I also added much longer tassels and placed them in every stitch, rather than the shorter tassels in every other stitch.

The above image shows the original Crochet Scarf for Beginners Pattern, and you can check that out if you like, especially if you want to make the tassels in the same style shown there. In this pattern, I used the Lion Brand Vintage Carousel yarn, and it was indeed on the finer side of a number four-medium weight yarn. It could have almost been classified as a number 3 weight. The above link will take you to the written pattern and there is a video tutorial as well. If you are new to crocheting, I do have my Beginner Crochet Series that teaches you all the basic stitches, how to have proper crochet tension, how to darn in the tail ends, and much more. So do check that out!

This pattern can be modified to be any width or length you like. I will be using a foundation chain of 21 chains, but you can make your chain whatever width you like. If you are using a chunky weight yarn, then you may use fewer chains, if you are using a lighter weight yarn, or want a wide scarf, then you may use more chains. The only thing to consider is how you space your tassels. If you want them in every other stitch, then make your foundation chain an odd number of chains. If you want them in every third stitch, then the same rule applies, but the chain will also need to be divisible by three. This calculation does not include the turning chain.

Supplies

• Bernat Premium Yarn: 7 oz (198 g) 360 yds (329 m) or equivalent number 4 medium-weight yarn
  • This color is Grand Purple
  • Available in Canada at Walmart
  • Available in the USA at Yarnspirations
• 4.5 mm (7 US) crochet hook
• Darning needle
• Stitch marker
• Scissors
• Hand-steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Abbreviations and Information

• Finished size: without tassels = 66″ x 7″ (167 cm x 18 cm) and with tassels: 80″ x 7″ (203 cm x 18 cm)
• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet

The Pattern

In this pattern, the chain one at the beginning of each row does not count as a stitch, it is a turning chain only.

Foundation chain: ch 21 (very loose sts).

Row one: ch 1, 1 sc in the back bump of each ch (21 sc), turn your work.

Row two: ch 1, 1 hdc under both loops of each st (21 hdc), turn your work. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of this row to mark the beginning of the pattern repeat.

Row three: repeat row two, turn your work.

Row four: ch 1, 1 hdc under both loops of the first st, *1 hdc in the top loop of the next st, repeat from * 19 times, 1 hdc under both loops of the last st (21 hdc), turn your work.

Row five: repeat row four.

Row six onward: repeat rows two through five, placing the stitch marker in the first row of the four-row repeat throughout the pattern until the scarf is the desired length.

Final row: ch 1, 1 sc under both loops of each st (21 sc). Fasten off and darn in the tail ends.

Attach your tassels as desired. I go into more detail in the video tutorial including how to calculate the yarn required for the number and style of tassels you choose. Check the video out below.

Trim your tassel ends and you are done! This Beginner-Friendly Crocheted Scarf will make such a wonderful gift and because it crochets up so quickly, it is the perfect design if you like to make scarves for donation.

If you like this pattern, you may also like:

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I’m still not creating a lot of content at this time, as I continue to find it difficult to be on the computer. If you are new around here, I wrote about the reason why in this post. This pattern was just so much fun to make that I wanted to share it with you.

I am using my stash of leftover yarn, but you can use any yarn you like. The funky design of this scarf is created by changing colors frequently and using a neutral color yarn to create a bit of cohesiveness. The colors I’m using are bright and cheerful, with a cream color for the neutral tone, but you could use a more masculine palate as shown below, and make the color changes less frequently. You could also use a solid color yarn, a variegated yarn, or a self-striping yarn for this pattern…there are so many possibilities and it really is the easiest crocheted scarf ever!

I am using a number four, medium-weight yarn, as that is what I have the most of in my stash of bits and bobs. But below, I show a number five, chunky weight yarn, with an 8 mm or L-11 hook. This is the exact same pattern (starting with a foundation chain of 13 chains), and you can see how much bigger the scarf is by using a heavier-weight yarn (and corresponding hook). You can also see how lovely this very simple and basic stitch pattern looks with the solid color yarn.

So, you really can be playful and use any yarn you like. And again, this is a great pattern to use up your stash of leftover yarn.

Supplies

• Yarn of your choice. I’m using a number 4 medium-weight yarn. The amount required will depend on the size you decide to make it, but you will need at least 200 yards or 185 meters.
• Crochet hook to correspond to the yarn size. I’m using a 4 mm or G-6 US, but a 4.5 mm or 7 US would work as well.
• Scissors
• Darning needle
• Handsteamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

You can make this scarf any size you like. The pattern I am sharing here begins with a foundation chain of 13 chains. This gives me a finish width of 3.5″ or 9 cm. You can make your foundation chain any width you like, but if you want to do tassels in every other stitch, then create a foundation chain with an odd number of stitches. If you want to put tassels in every third stitch, then you want your foundation chain to be divisible by three, plus one stitch.

For example: 3 x 4 = 12 + 1 = 13 chains (so this pattern could have tassels in every other stitch or every third stitch). Then next multiple would be 3 x 5 = 15 + 1 = 16 chains. Because this is an even number, then it would not work for tassels in every other stitch. The next multiple would be 3 x 6 = 18 + 1 = 19 chains, so this would work for tassels in either every other stitch or every third stitch. The choice is yours!

The Pattern

Foundation chain: ch 13

Row one: ch 1, 1 sc in back bump of next ch from hook, 1 sc in back bump of each ch to the end of the row (13 sc’s).

Row two: ch 1, turn your work. 1 sc under both loops of the first sc from the previous row, 1 sc under both loops of each sc from the previous row (13 sc’s).

Row three onwards: repeat row two (to the desired length).

To add a new color, you have a couple of choices. You can join the color mid-row, or join it at the end of the row, as I show here. If you want to change the yarn in a more random fashion then you could use the magic knot to join all your yarn pieces together. I have a tutorial on how to do that here.

Otherwise, as you come to your last single crochet, begin the stitch, but don’t complete it…leave both loops on your hook and cut a tail. Bring in a new color of yarn, fold it over with a tail and pull that through the single crochet to finish the stitch. Chain one, turn your work, and continue crocheting on your easiest crocheted scarf ever.

You can darn in your tail ends as you go or do them all at the end, it’s up to you! Some people find darning the tails annoying, but it’s really just a state of mind. I find it rather relaxing and sort of meditative. I have instructions on how to do this in the video tutorial and also in my Beginner Crochet Series.

As you add new colors, you can use the neutral color every now and then and change the number of rows each time so there is a variation in the width of the color block. Do the same for all the other colors, just being playful and random. Once you have the scarf to the desired length (mine was 68″ or 170 cm before tassels), then you can fasten off with a chain one in the last single crochet of the last row.

To add tassels, cut strands of yarn in various colors to the desired length. A general rule of thumb is to multiply your desired finished length of tassel by two and add one inch or so for the knot and trimming. I cut my strands 10″ (25 cm) in length. You can cut them individually or use a template (see the video tutorial).

Bring together however many strands you want for each tassel (I used three), and place your hook through the first stitch (under both loops), from the front to the back.

Pull the strands through the stitch, create a loop with your fingers and pull the tail ends through the loop. Snug them up and if desired, place a drop of fabric glue on each knot to prevent it from unraveling. Place a set of tassels in every other stitch or every third stitch. Trim the ends and you are done with your easiest crocheted scarf ever!

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If you like this pattern, you may also like these:

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The yarn I am using in this project is a thrift store find, but you can use any number three, light-weight yarn, or a heavy cotton thread. I would recommend a yarn that has some cotton included in the blend to give the scarf some strength. A synthetic yarn may stretch too much. While I don’t know the fiber content or brand of this yarn, I have provided a couple of possible comparable yarns in the supply list below.

Supply List

• Number 3 light-weight yarn ~ 18 yards (16.5 m) per square (roughly based on yarn choice and personal tension)
  • Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Yarn
  • Lion Brand Truboo Yarn
• 4 mm (G-6) crochet hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand Steamer (recommended)
• Blocking Board (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Terms and Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• 3dc cl = 3 double crochet cluster
• yo = yarn over
• beg = beginning

Special stitch ~ 3dc cl: [yo, place hook through sp, yo, draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops], 3 times in the same sp, yo draw through all 4 loops on hook.

While this is a slightly more advanced pattern, if you are new to crocheting, make sure to check out my Beginner Crochet Series here. I have several beginner-friendly crochet patterns here on my blog, as well as on my YouTube channel, so after a bit of practice, you can always come back to this pattern!

The size of this Crocheted Old-Time Scarf is 5″ x 80″ (12.5 cm x 203 cm), not including the tassels. This is based on my choice of yarn and my tension. You can make this scarf any length you like and you can make it using full squares only, or use half-squares on each end as I have done here. You can add tassels or not…it’s totally up to you! You can make the scarf wider by using two rows of squares. Be creative and have fun!

If you want to make the scarf as I have done here, you will need a total of twelve Crocheted Old-Time Granny Squares (the pattern for that in my previous blog). If you prefer, you can go right to the YouTube video here. You will also need two half-size squares, and I have the pattern for that below!

Row One: ch 5, join with a sl st to beg ch1, ch 3 (counts as 1st dc), *1 dc in ring, repeat from * 6 times (8 dc incl beg ch3). Turn your work.

Row two: note-you are working into the backside of the motif, therefore the “back loop and back bump stitches” are now facing you. I will refer to those two stitches as the front bump and front loop, as that is how they will appear to you.

Ch 5 (counts as 1dc, ch2), *1 dc, ch 2 in the front bump and front loop of the same st, *1 dc, ch 2 in the front bump and front loop of the next st, repeat from * 5 times (8 dc, ch2), 1 dc in 3rd ch of beg ch3 from the previous row. Turn your work.

Row three: ch 3, working into the first ch2 sp, [yo, place hook through sp, yo, draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops], 2 times in the same sp, yo draw through all 3 loops on hook (beg 3dc cl made), ch 3, *1 3dc cl, ch 3 in next ch2 sp, repeat from * 6 times, but eliminate the last ch 3 (8 3dc cl’s made). Turn your work.

In the pattern for the square motif, I used a chain 8 for the corner spaces. When working on this scarf pattern, I found that some of those chain 8 spaces were a bit bulky. This is because my tension was too loose in some of the corners. In retrospect, I think a chain 7 for the corner spaces would work better, so I’m giving the option to use either number depending on your crochet tension.

Row four: ch 8 (or 7), 1 3dc cl in the top of the 3dc cluster from the previous row, ch 4. 1 sc, ch 4 in next ch3 sp, 3 times, [1 3dc cl, ch 8 (or 7), 1 3dc cl, ch 4] in next ch 3 sp, 1 sc, ch 4 in next ch3 sp, 3 times, 1 3dc cluster in the top of the 3dc cluster from the previous row, ch 8 (or 7), join with a sl st into the 2nd ch of the beg ch3 from the previous row, fasten off.

It is very important to block all of the squares before proceeding to the next step of joining the squares together. You can use a blocking board or a piece of styrofoam with pins. Lay the squares out, shaping them nicely, and then either spritz them with water and allow them to dry or use a hand steamer and allow them to dry (or use your own preferred blocking method).

To join the squares together, place two squares, right sides up, one above the other. Join yarn with a slip stitch into the chain 8 (or 7) space of the bottom square. Chain 2, remove the loop from the hook and place the hook into the chain 8 (or 7) space of the top square. Grab the loop and pull it into the space from the bottom and make a slip stitch. Chain 4, remove the loop from the hook, and place the hook into the first chain 4 space of the lower square. Grab the loop and pull it into the space from the bottom and make a slip stitch.

Continue to chain 4 and slip stitch into each consecutive chain 4 space working back and forth between the top and bottom squares until you are at the chain 8 (or 7) space of the lower square. Chain 2 and slip stitch into the last corner space. Fasten off and darn in your tail ends. Continue to join each square in this way including the half squares on each end of the scarf if that is what you’ve chosen to do.

To create tassels, use a jig of some sort that is a bit longer than the length of tassel you want. My jig is 7″ (18 cm) in length. Wrap as many strands as you require. I am doing multiples of 5, which will give 10 strands per tassel and I’m making 5 strands per side. So that is 25 strands per side or 50 in total. Cut at the bottom of the jig to create the tassel strands. Using your crochet hook, pull the set of strands through the corner space as shown above.

Make a loop (making sure all the ends are nice and straight) and snug the tassel up. Continue to place tassels in the double crochet spaces, the center space, and the other corner. You can use a bit of fabric glue on the knot of each tassel to help prevent them from coming undone.

Trim each set of tassels straight across and you are done! Isn’t this the prettiest scarf ever! This pattern can be worn with a single wrap around the neck or with a double wrap. If you don’t want the scarf to be this long, you can eliminate one or two squares from the pattern…it’s totally up to you! I hope you enjoyed this pattern for the Crocheted OldTtime Lace Scarf

A video tutorial for your convenience!

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I will provide a pattern for this scarf and for a small blanket. There will be enough yarn with the five balls shown below to make either of these projects. The scarf measures 9″ by 78″ or 23 cm by 197 cm, and the blanket measures 27″ by 39″ 68.5 cm by 99 cm (roughly based on the choice of yarn and crochet tension). This does not include the border because I give you four different options for a border, so that will be different depending on your choice of finish.

If you are new to crocheting, I do suggest starting with my Beginner Crochet Series to learn all the basic stitches and skills required for this project.

The yarn I am using for this project is the Loops and Threads Impeccable line which is exclusive to Michaels. I live in Canada and this is where I got my yarn, but I wasn’t able to get onto a US website for Michaels. So I can only assume that Michaels in the US also carries this line. If not, you can simply choose a similar color scheme in a different brand.

I do suggest, however, that you stay within one brand of yarn because it is important that the yarn is the same weight. This is a number 4 medium-weight acrylic yarn and I have noticed that the rating for this weight of yarn can vary quite a bit. Some are closer to a number 3 weight, and others are closer to a number 5 weight. In order to get the correct size in the granny squares, all the yarn must be the same size.

I suggest using five different colors, with four of them being within a given color palate and then one neutral color. Here I chose reds, so I have a deep burgundy, red, dark pink, light pink, and then cream as the neutral. See the exact colors in the supply list below.

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = st
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half-double crochet
• dc = double crochet

The Supplies you will need are:

• 5 balls of number 4 medium weight yarn. The colors (and brand) I used are:
  • Michaels Brand Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn: Acrylic 245 yards/ 4.5 oz (260 m/127.5 g) per ball. The links below are for Michaels Canada. See the color chart for individual colors.
    • Burgundy
    • Claret
    • Rich Orchid
    • Soft Rose
    • Golden Beige
  • 5 mm H-8 crochet hook
  • 5.5 mm to 6 mm (I-9 to J-10) crochet hook
  • Darning needle
  • Scissors
  • Hand Steamer

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Above is the color scheme for panel A. Each panel is made using one 9″ (23 cm) granny square with 7 rounds, two 4.5″ (11.5 cm) granny squares with 3 rounds, and six 3″ (7.5 cm) granny squares made with 2 rounds. The size of each of the three squares is achieved using different size crochet hooks. The largest square and the smallest squares are made using the 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook and the medium size square is made using a crochet hook that is a half to one size bigger than the large and small squares. I found the 6 mm (J-10) size hook worked best for me, but this will depend on your choice of yarn and crochet tension.

The above panel is the color scheme for panel B. Between these two color schemes, you can make all sorts of projects. You can use a different color palette if you like, but use the tones from darkest to lightest, in the same way that I did here. This ensures you don’t repeat any of the same colored squares side by side throughout any design.

The above drawing shows how to lay the panels out for both the scarf and the baby blanket. If you wanted to make a larger blanket, just continue to add panels in the same way until you have the size you desire. You could use the panels to make a pocket shawl (design not shown) by doing a row just like the scarf but using three panels only. Then create another row laying the panels out starting with panel B. Do B, A, B, and then join those two rows together. You can make a couple of pockets for each end with the granny square pattern, probably with five rounds. You can also add tassels to both the scarf and pocket shawl if desired. Be playful and creative!

You may already know how to crochet granny squares, so you can then use the knowledge to this point to create whatever project you like. I have been perfecting my granny square pattern, and I have a couple of little tips that make for a perfect granny square, so you can check that out in the pattern and directions below. Please forgive the quality of the photos, as I (again) forgot to take photographs as I was filming this pattern. I have grabbed clips from the video footage for these images.

Granny Square Pattern

Round one: ch 5, sl st into the first ch to create a ring. Ch 2 (counts as middle dc), 1 dc into the ring, ch 2, *[3 dc, ch 2] into the ring. Repeat from * 2 times. 1 dc into the ring (this completes the first 3dc cluster for a total of four 3dc clusters). Sk 2 ch’s, join with a sl st into the top of the first dc, fasten off.

Round two: Join new color into a ch2 sp with a sl st, [ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp. Repeat from * 2 times, 1 dc into the beg ch2 sp. Sk 2 ch’s, join with a sl st into the top of the first dc, fasten off.

Round three: Join new color into a ch2 sp with a sl st, [ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 2 times, 1 dc into the beg ch2 sp. Sk 2 ch’s, join with a sl st into the top of the first dc, fasten off.

Rounds four to seven: repeat round three, increasing the number of 3 dc clusters along each straight edge.

For the last round of each size square, finish with an invisible stitch. I have a video tutorial here and directions below.

Rather than finishing the last round with a slip stitch, you can finish with the invisible finish. This eliminates the knot for the last round and makes it easier to join the granny squares together. This is not necessary but is a nice option. Complete the last double crochet of the last round, cut a tail, and pull the yarn through the loop on the hook. Thread on a darning needle and bring the needle from behind under two stitches of the double crochet you normally fasten off into. Bring the needle back down in between the V-stitch of the stitch the yarn is coming out of. Snug up the ‘mock stitch’ and darn in your tail end.

Once you have made all the granny squares for each panel and darned in all your tail ends, you can begin to join the granny squares together. Follow the pattern shown at the top of this post for the layout and use any stitch you like to join the squares together. I am using the whip stitch and picking up the top loop of each square only. This creates a nice frame for each square. You can whip stitch into both loops, or use any other joining technique you like!

Cut a length of yarn that is double the length of the seam you are sewing together, plus a few inches for tails on each end to darn in. I like to lay my squares out as shown above and begin my whip stitch in the outermost chain of the chain two space, coming in from the back of the top square. I then come down to the lower square and bring the needle in from the front of the stitch, going into the next chain of the chain two space.

I then bring the needle up into the next stitch of the top square, coming in from the back of the stitch. and then bring the needle down into the next stitch of the bottom square, coming in from the front of the stitch. Repeat this along the full seam and darn in the tail ends.

You will see at the bottom of the image of panel A, the stitch count for each square and sets of squares. Because the squares are different sizes, the stitch count will be different. The 9″ square has 31 stitches, so when you join that to the two 4.5″ squares which have only 28 stitches, you need to make them fit together. I suggest skipping one ch1 stitch on either end of the 9″ square, and using the whip stitch in the seam of the two 4.5″ squares as an extra stitch.

The six 3″ squares will have 30 stitches, so you can skip one ch1 stitch on each end of this section when joining it to the section of 4.5″ squares. I explain this more in the video tutorial if this sounds too complicated. But these are all the little tricks that help to bring different size squares together to create one uniform piece of fabric.

Once you have the panels sewed together, you can use the hand steamer to block the panels. You can also just wait until the project is finished to do this step. Then you can join the panels to create the project of your choice. Here I have joined four panels end to end to create the scarf. You can be done at this point or add a border of some sort.

There will be enough yarn left from the five balls of yarn to create a variety of borders for the scarf, but there may only be enough yarn left to do a simple single crochet border around the blanket. This will depend on your choice of yarn and your tension. You will have to make that call yourself. I have four different border ideas below. You can crochet into just the top loop of each stitch as shown below, or you can pick up both stitches. This is up to you. I like how crocheting into the top loop creates a ‘frame’ so to speak.

Single Crochet Border: join with a sc into the top loop (or both loops) of any st, 1 sc in the top loop (or both loops) of each st to the first corner, 2 sc in each ch of ch2 sp, or 4 sc in ch2 sp if crocheting into both loops (4 sc’s around the corner). Continue all the way around, join with the invisible finish into the beg sc. Darn in the tail ends.

Half-Double Crochet Border: join with a sl st into the top loop (or both loops) of any st, ch 2. 1 hdc into the top loop (or both loops) of each st to the first corner. 2 hdc in each ch of ch2 sp, or 4 hdc in ch2 sp if crocheting into both loops (4 hdc’s around the corner). Continue all the way around, join with the invisible finish as shown with the granny square pattern, but going into the beg hdc. Darn in the tail ends.

Double Crochet Border: join with a sl st into the top loop (or both loops) of any st, ch 2. 1 dc into the top loop (or both loops) of each st to the first corner. 2 dc in 1st ch of ch2 sp, 1 dc into ch2 sp, 2 dc in 2nd ch of ch2 sp, or 5 dc in ch2 sp if crocheting into both loops (5 dc’s around the corner). Continue all the way around, join with the invisible finish as shown with the granny square pattern. Darn in the tail ends.

Granny Square Stitch Border: for this border, just follow the same pattern for the granny squares themselves. You can join on with a ch 2 in any ch1 sp or in the corner as before. Finish in the same way. I do, however, have a suggestion for a simple change. I always eliminate the ch 1 in between the clusters of 3dc when doing a border. This sort of ‘snugs up’ the last round. It is totally dependent on your crochet tension, and if you tend to have tight tension, then this may not work for you. Just give it a try and see how it looks, you will be able to tell fairly soon if you like this change. If not, just use the ch 1 as usual.

What I love about crochet is that you can change things up in countless ways. The stitch patterns are guidelines, but there are so many variations that can be used in any crochet project you make. I’ve given you lots of ideas here and lots of room to play around! I hope you enjoy this tutorial, and as I only post one tutorial every three or four weeks, you may want to subscribe to my newsletter so you don’t miss out!

If any of the above directions are unclear, you can find more details in the video tutorial. Enjoy! Please give the video and thumbs up and subscribe to my YouTube channel…I would be most grateful!

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I love to create crochet patterns that are beginner-friendly, but don’t look as though they are! This pattern is made using the single crochet stitch and the double crochet stitch…that’s it! If you want to finish the edges with a bit more panache, I will also show you how to do a fan stitch with a picot. But I give some simple options for finishing as well. The self-striping yarn really makes this scarf, but it would look fabulous with a solid color as well. If you are new to crochet, I have a Beginner Crochet Series here.

This pattern has four different options for finishing the ends of the scarf. You can do a very simple finish with a row of single crochet which would make this a more masculine scarf, or you can add tassels to each end of the single crochet edge. I will also show you how to crochet a fan stitch with a picot which gives the scarf a very classy look, and then you can add tassels to the picots if desired. This Easy Crocheted Scarf ~ Hugs and Kisses is one scarf with four different looks!

The length of the scarf will be different for each finish. The width will be the same a 6″ (15 cm). The simple single crochet finish will be 60″ (152 cm) long, with tassels added, it will be 67″ (170 cm) long, the fan stitch with picots will be 63″ (160 cm) long and with tassels, it will be 70″ (178 cm) long.

The supplies you will need are:

• Lion Brand Ferris Wheel Yarn in Vintage Carousel: 3oz (85g) 270yd (247m) 1.25 balls or 340yd (310m)
  • or equivalant amount of any number 4 medium weight yarn
• G-6 (4mm) crochet hook
• H-8 (5mm) crochet hook (optional)
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Handsteamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Because this scarf pattern uses a bit more than one ball of yarn, you can use the rest of the second ball to make some gloves or a cozy hat. I have a beginner-friendly hat pattern here. You could also buy three balls of yarn and make two scarves.

Gauge and Abbreviations

• Gauge: 15 sts = 4″ (10 cm) and 6.75 rows = 4″ (10 cm)
• Multiples = 2 sts, plus 1
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• sl st = slip stitch
• sk st = skip a stitch
• sk’d st = skipped stitch

Foundation chain: starting with the H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, ch 21 (or any multiple of 2 plus 1). If you are good at controlling your tension, then you can use the G-6 (4mm) crochet hook and make the foundation chain very loose.

Row one: continuing with the larger hook size, ch 1, 1 sc in back bump of the first ch from hook (not the turning ch). *1 sc in back bump of next ch, rpt from * to end of row. Total 21 sc’s, turn your work.

Row two: using the G-6 (4mm) crochet hook, ch 3 (counts as a dc), sk st at the base of the ch3, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in sk’d st.

*sk st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in sk’d st (1 dc cross stitch complete), repeat from * 8 times (total 10 dc cross sts), 1 dc in last st, turn your work.

Row three: ch 3 (counts as a dc), *sk st, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in sk’d st, repeat from * 9 times (total 10 dc cross stitches), 1 dc in 3rd ch of turning ch from the previous row, turn your work.

Rows 4 to 101: repeat row 3

You can make this scarf as long as you like by repeating row 3. By row 101, the scarf should be close to 60″ (152 cm). If you want to add tassels, then the total length of the scarf will be at least 7″ (18 cm) longer. To join the second ball of yarn, you can either bring in the new strand in the midst of a stitch and darn in the tail ends or use the magic knot. I have a tutorial for the knot here. Once you have your desired length, then finish as directed below.

Final row (of basic finish): ch 1, 1 sc in each stitch across (make sure to do a sc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch from the previous row) and fasten off. I like to do a ch 1 and then fasten off. Darn in your tail ends, and at this point, you can be done! But, if you want to do the fan stitch with the picot…don’t fasten off.

The simple single crochet finish creates a nice clean look and makes this finish a great design for a man scarf. So this is the first option to finish your scarf.

If you want to do the second option and make tassels, then cut 42 strands of yarn 8″ (20 cm) in length. Use a cardboard jig or a card that is 4″ (10 cm) high to wrap the yarn around and then cut the wraps across the top.

Take 3 strands of yarn and place the crochet hook from the back into the first stitch. Pull all 3 strands through, create a loop and pull the strands through the loop as shown above, and snug them up nicely. Skip 2 stitches and repeat with a set of 3 strands of yarn. Repeat this all the way across with the last tassel going into the last stitch. You will have seven sets of tassels. Trim them freehand or use a ruler. Repeat these steps on the other side of the scarf and you are done!

If you want to carry on with a more advanced finish, then you can follow these directions for a fan/picot cluster.

Fan with picot: ch 1, 1 sc in first st, sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, ch 3, sl st into 2 front posts at the base of the ch3 (picot complete).

2 dc in same st, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next st. *Sk 1 st, 3 dc in next st, ch 3, sl st into the 2 posts at the base of the ch3 (picot complete), 2 dc in same st, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next st. Repeat from * 3 times, fasten off and darn in the tail ends.

For the other side of the scarf, make sure you are working into the same side as the fan and picot row on the other edge. Join on with a sc into the first st. Repeat the fan/picot cluster pattern, creating 5 clusters in all. Fasten off and darn in your tail ends.

At this point, you can be done because the fan/picot cluster creates a very elegant finish for the scarf. However, you can now add tassels in each picot for one more look. You can create long tassels, short tassels, make them in assorted colors or make them all the same color…use your own creative initiative! I added four tassels per picot, but you can add more. Add them in just the same way as you do with the single crochet edge, just make sure you place the hook through the chain-three-loop of each picot and not a stitch within the picot.

You can hand steam the scarf to block it (I love this hand steamer), or you can wash the scarf according to the yarn directions and lay it flat to dry and hand block it. This Easy Crochet Scarf ~ Hugs and Kisses is such a great pattern because it has so many different ways in which you can finish it. And, because it crochets up so quickly, it makes the perfect project for a Christmas gift or as a gift any time of the year.

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But because the scarf pattern is so lovely, and there is no copyright claim on my design, I decided to rework the granny square pattern and offer this scarf tutorial again using the new pattern. You can see in the image below the difference between the original granny square design and the new one I have created.

You can find the “Color Wheel Granny Square Pattern” here, and using that pattern, you can proceed with the rest of the tutorial for the crocheted Color Wheel Scarf. So, while the following images are from the design I removed, the new granny square design (or any other granny square pattern), can be used in its place.

There are 12 granny squares in total for this scarf pattern, and the motif measured 5.25″ x 5.25″. A traditional granny square with 4 rounds comes out the same size for me. They are joined together with a denim color yarn. The scarf is then trimmed in a simple granny square stitch with a nice scalloped pattern on the ends. The finished scarf is 70″ x 6.5″.

For the granny squares, I used an assortment of acrylic yarns that I had in my stash, but you can use any number 4 medium-weight yarn you like. Wool blends, cotton or bamboo yarn would all be lovely choices. You can see the various color combinations I used in the image above with the six different colors I chose. I created all different color combinations, but I did make sure to use one of each color for the final round of each square. I repeated this two times so that I had consistent color repeats for the final rounds.

The supplies you will need for the Crocheted Color Wheel Scarf are:

• Number 4 medium-weight yarn in assorted colors. I used the following:
  • Bernat Satin-Mia Tai (pink)
  • Bernat Satin-Stardust (light purple)
  • Patons Canadiana-Medium Teal
  • Patons Canadian-Fools Gold
  • Cascade Anthum-#44 (green)
  • Red from the thrift shop
• 4 mm or G-6US crochet hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

The yarn I used to join all the squares together and to crochet around the border is actually a finer-weight yarn. I really wanted a denim color yarn and I couldn’t find this color in a number 4 medium weight acrylic (or any other blend) yarn. I did find something close in the Bernat Premium, but I find this brand of yarn quite chunky for a number 4, and it was too heavy for the border.

I recommend using at least the same weight yarn that you make the granny squares with, or something a little lighter. I used the Berroco Vintage DK in color number 2170. This is actually a number 3 lightweight yarn, but it worked very well for the border. There are several online yarn shops that carry this yarn including Yarnatopia. I love the look of the denim color, but you could use any neutral color such as tan, grey, or black.

To join the squares together, I used what I call a “visible whip stitch”. This is done by stitching the squares together by going through the top posts only on the edge of the squares. This creates a nice ‘frame’ so to speak once the squares are joined. Start by cutting a piece of yarn in the color to be used to crochet around the border. Measure about 2.5 lengths of one side of the square and thread that onto a darning needle.

Lay two squares side by side, right sides facing up. Bring the needle in from the back of the first chain in the corner of the square on the left side. Just pick up one post…the top one. Then put the needle through the top of the second chain in the corner of the square on the right, going from the right to the left…again, just picking up the top post. Pick up the next stitch of the square on the left, going under the post (see image above on the left and where the black arrows are pointing).

Pull the yarn through both posts and bring the needle around to the square on the right. Put the needle under the top posts of each square, sewing from the right to the left (see image above on the right).

Continue to join the squares, sewing from the right to the left, picking up the corresponding posts on each square (see above).

When you reach the end, bring the needle back down into the previous stitch and darn the end into the back of the square. Darn in the tail on the other side. Continue to join all 12 squares together in a row (or whatever number of squares you need for the size you want.)

The border for the scarf is a basic granny square stitch. Begin in any chain one space along the straight edge of the scarf.

Round One: Join with a sl st into a ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 1 in same ch1 sp. *3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * to corner. (note that you will be working into the ch2 spaces where the squares are joined and those will be treated the same as a ch1 sp…see image above on the left)

Work corner (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in the ch2 sp. Continue to work clusters of 3 dc, ch 1 in each ch1 sp, and work each corner as directed.

Join the first round with a sl st into the 3rd ch of the beg ch3 (see image above left)

Round Two: Ch 1, 1 sc in next st (going under 2 loops…see image above right), 1 sc in each st to corner.

Work 2 sc in ch2 sp of the first corner, sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st to create a shell, 1 sc in ch1 sp. *sk 1 st, 5 dc in next st, 1 sc in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 3 more times to the next corner.

2 sc in ch2 sp, 1 sc in each stitch to the next corner. Repeat directions for scallops for the other end and continue with 1 sc in each stitch to complete round, sl st to join round. Darn in ends.

You can block or steam the scarf when you are done. To block it, follow the washing instructions for the yarn you used and lay it flat to dry. Hand press it to shape. If you have a hand steamer, you can use that to press and block your scarf. This is the one I have and I love it!

I love this crocheted Color Wheel scarf and I hope you do too! It is a perfect spring scarf and looks fabulous with a denim jacket. Make sure to subscribe to my newsletter so you don’t miss out on any great projects!

As always, I have a video tutorial for this project as well and if there is anything you are uncertain of, I’m sure you will find the answer in the video. Enjoy and be playful!

Make sure to check out the new design for the Color Wheel Granny Square Motif here, which includes written directions, but I will also share the direct link to the YouTube video if you prefer the video tutorial.

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If you like this tutorial, you may also like:

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The finished length of the scarf body is 58″ (147 cm), and with the tassels, it finishes at 66″ (168 cm). The width is 6.5″ (16 cm), however, both the width and length of this scarf can be adjusted to any size you like. You can make it with or without tassels…it is totally up to you! The pattern is created by crocheting a simple half-double crochet (hdc) v-stitch and you can crochet as many rows as you like.

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The design this creates looks complicated, but it isn’t! Make this scarf as a gift (it is quick and easy to make), or make it for yourself. You can use any yarn you like, but solid colors or self-striping yarn show the pattern design the best. Some variegated yarns can distract from the design, but it depends on how variegated it is…just try a sample and see! And, as always, I have created a video tutorial on YouTube and you can find that at the bottom of this post.

Helpful Information

• Gauge: 4″ width (10 cm) = 13 stitches
  • 4″ height (10 cm) = 9 rows
• sk st = skip a stitch
• ch = chain stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet

Supply List

• Bernat Premium Yarn, color is Dalia, 7 oz (198 gm), 360 yards (329 m) or equivilant #4 medium weight yarn
  • In Canada
  • The Bernat Premium doesn’t seem to be available in the US, but I think this would look amazing!
• G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook
• H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook (optional)
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand Steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Begin with a very loose foundation chain. If you are not proficient with controlling your tension, you can use an H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook, otherwise use a G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook. For this exact pattern, ch 20. If you want to make the scarf a different width, then create a foundation chain with an even number of chains. If you are using a different yarn, then you want to use a crochet hook that is one size smaller than the recommended hook size for that yarn. The reason for this is so that you can create a nice tight stitch for the scarf, which will make this a warmer fabric.

Row one: ch 1 (counts as a turning ch), 1 sc in the back loop of the first ch (not the turning ch), 1 sc in the back loop of each ch to the end of the row (total 20 sc, or whatever number your beginning ch started with), turn your work.

Row two: ch 2 (counts as a turning ch and the first hdc), *sk st, (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in next st. Repeat from * to the end of the row (9 hdc v-stitches). There should be 2 sts left, sk st, hdc in last st, turn your work.

If you have been using the larger crochet hook for a loose tension, you can now change to the G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook for the rest of the pattern.

Row three: ch 2 (counts as a turning ch and the first hdc), *sk st (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in ch1 sp (hdc v-stitch from the previous row). Repeat from * 8 times (9 hdc v-stitches), sk st, hdc in the second ch of the ch2 from the previous row, turn your work.

Rows 4 to 120: Repeat row 3. This is the length I made the body of my scarf (58″ or 147 cm), but you can make the scarf any length you like! Just continue to repeat row 3 until you reach your desired length. I wanted to add tassels, which made the finished scarf 66″ (147 cm) in length. I am rather short, so this length was good for me. I was left with about 30 yards (27 m) of Bernat Premium yarn, so there was plenty left to make a longer scarf. Once you have the scarf as long as you like, you can finish off with the final row.

Final row: ch 1 (counts as turning ch), 1 sc in the first stitch from hook, 1 sc in next st, *sk st, 1 sc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * to the end of the row. The very last sc will be done in the second chain of the ch2 from the previous row. You will have 20 sc’s or whatever number your beginning chain was. Fasten off and darn in your tail ends.

At this point, you can be done! The pattern is so lovely as it is, but if you like you can add tassels on each end. You can put one or two strands in every stitch, or two or three strands in every other stitch, or three or four strands in every third stitch. That is what I did. Depending on how many stitches wide you’ve made your scarf, you will have to calculate the spacing, and in the case of this scarf (whether you do every other stitch or every third stitch), there will be an extra stitch leftover. In that case, just skip that extra stitch and put your tassel in the last stitch…you won’t even be able to tell.

Calculate how many strands of yarn you require based on the number of strands per tassel and the number of tassels required. I needed 42 strands altogether. Figure out how long you want your finished tassel (say 4 inches), double that, and add 1 inch for the wrap and for trimming. Each strand would need to be 9″ (or whatever length you want). Cut a cardboard jig 4.5″ high, and use that to wrap your yarn around to create multiple strands. Cut the wraps at the bottom of the jig…and there you go!

Bring together the number of strands you’ve decided on, fold them in half, and then place the crochet hook into the back of the first chain. Put the strands on the hook and pull them through the chain stitch. Even the ends out and bring them in through the loop and snug them up.

Repeat this process for every set of tassels and then use a straight edge to trim the ends. You can hand steam the scarf or wash it according to the yarn directions and lay it flat to dry. Then you are done! Isn’t that such an easy and beautiful pattern?

I hope you enjoyed this super easy crocheted scarf for beginners. I recently created a donate option for individuals who would like to contribute to this free content. You can find that here. Any donations are greatly appreciated! The video tutorial below will show you step by step how to crochet this pattern. Have fun and make several in all sorts of colors!

Some people have said that it is difficult to see the stitches in the YouTube tutorial because of the yarn color. I created another video showing how to do the stitch pattern itself as a remedy to this issue. I do apologize for the visual problems in the first video.

As some of you may know, my husband had a couple of strokes recently. Then he had a third (very small stroke) last weekend. While his recovery has been quite remarkable, the physical and emotional stress of all of this has taken its toll on me. I’ve also hit my head and have a mild concussion. As a result, my Central Sensitivity Disorder has flared up and I’m having a hard time creating content for my blog and YouTube channel. So, please bear with me as I share simple and infrequent content for now.

The post Super Easy Crocheted Scarf for Beginners appeared first on Create and Crochet.

If you are new to crochet, then I do recommend my Beginner Crochet Series that teaches you all the basic crochet stitches and tips such as proper crochet tension. Once you have mastered the basics, then you will be able to learn how to crochet a man’s scarf! In this tutorial, you will learn how to do a front post double crochet, which is a magical way to use the double crochet stitch. The result is this beautifully textured fabric for the scarf.

While I am calling this a ‘man’s scarf’, because of the choice of yarn and the stitch pattern, this is actually a unisex scarf and would be lovely for both men and women. I am using a self-striping yarn, which really adds to the look of this scarf, but this design would look great with a solid color yarn as well.

At the time of publishing this post, the yarns I used may be hard to find. I got the Lion Brand yarn from Michaels Canada and the Bernat yarn from Walmart. I’ve given links to some possible suppliers on-line, but you may have to substitute different brands and/or colors.

You can crochet the scarf using just the textured stitch and leave it as is, or you can add a border around the scarf in a complementary color as shown above. You could also add tassels if you like! The scarf (without the border) measures 6.5″ (16 cm) by 70″ (178 cm). The border adds about 1″ (2.5 cm) to the width and length. You could make the scarf a bit longer if you like, it is totally up to you!

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Number 4 medium weight yarn (minimum 450 yards or 412 meters)
  • I used Lion Brand Ferris Wheel in Morning Java (this 3 pack would be enough to make a matching hat and gloves)
• Optional complimentary color (less than 50 yards or 46 meters)
  • I used Bernat Premium Dark Gray Heather
• Crochet hooks in size 6 mm (J-10) and optionally 6.5 mm (K 10.5) {I’m showing different hooks in the image below because I changed my mind after I started the project…frogged the yarn and started again}
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

You can see how beautiful this crochet stitch is, and it is created with a simple four-row pattern repeat. Once you get going on the pattern, it becomes very relaxing and meditative, and it crochets up quite quickly!

If you decide to add a crocheted border, you can pick out any color from the self-striping yarn that you like. I chose the dark grey and I happen to have the Bernat Premium yarn on hand in the perfect complementary color! But as I mentioned above, this scarf is quite lovely without the border and would look great with tassels…use your own creative inspiration!

I have created a step by step tutorial for you and you can watch it right here or pop over to YouTube and watch it there. Enjoy!

If you like this tutorial, then you may also like:

• Crochet Scarf for Beginners
• How to Crochet a Pocket Shawl: Easy Pattern
• Colorful Crocheted Scarf

Sharing is caring…click on the social share button and choose an image from below to share!

The post How to Crochet a Man’s Scarf: For Beginners appeared first on Create and Crochet.

I do have my beginner crochet series that does show all the stitches used in this pattern (other than a V-stitch), so if you are feeling confident as a beginner, you could endeavor to try this tutorial!

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• 1 ball of Red Heart Unforgettable Yarn in Polo 3.5 oz (100gm) 270 yds (246 m)
  • From Amazon (very expensive)
  • From Yarnspirations
• H-8 (5 mm) and G-6 (4 mm) crochet hooks
• Darning Needle
• Stitch Markers (optional)
• Scissors
• 1.5″ (4 mm) or 1.25″ (3.5 mm) button. You have an option to use 1 to 3 buttons.

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

The Unforgettable yarn is 100% acrylic and is called a number 4, medium-weight yarn. The ball weighs 3.5 oz or 100 grams and has 270 yards or 246 meters. While this yarn is called a number 4 weight, it is actually quite fine. There are some larger chunks here and there, but for the most part, I think this yarn is more like a number 3 weight. I did a yarn review here.

The cowl can be worn in a few different ways and I show the second option in the image above. The dimensions of the cowl are 8″ or 20 cm wide, by 37″ or 94 cm long. The foundation chain is 37 chains to equal 8″, if you choose to use a different yarn, either heavier or lighter, you will have to adjust the pattern repeat. I explain how to do that in the tutorial. This Fall Cowl will use approximately 210 yards or 190 meters of the Red Heart yarn.

Information and special instructions

• ch = chain
• st(s) = stitch(s)
• sk = skip
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• Gauge: 17 sts = 4″ (10 cm), 8 rows (of pattern repeat) = 4″ (10 cm)
• Finished size: 8″ (20 cm) by 37″ (94 cm)
• Note: all stitches are crocheted into both loops of the stitch from the previous row with the exception of row one.

The Pattern

Foundation chain: ch 37 (very loose chains, if not proficient with tension use H-8 or 5 mm crochet hook, change back to smaller hook when done). If you want to make the scarf a different width, just add or subtract 4 sts either way, but in odd multiples.

Row one: ch 1 (counts as turning ch), 1 sc in the back loop of the first ch (not the turning ch), 1 sc in the back loop of each ch to the end of the row (total 37 sc, or whatever number of stitches your beginning ch started with), turn your work. If you have been using the larger crochet hook, switch to the G-6 or 4 mm size for the rest of the pattern.

Row two: ch 4 (counts as a turning ch and the first tr), 1 dc in 1^st sc, ch 1, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, *ch 1, sk 2 sts, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 tr, ch 1, 1 dc] in next st, ch 1, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, ch 1. Repeat from * 4 times to last 3 sts, [1 dc, 1 tc] into last st, turn your work. (5 full clusters and 2 half clusters)

Row three: ch 1, 1 sc in tr, *ch 1, 1 tr in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in 2 strands of the lower side of tr just made to create a v-stitch, ch 1, 1 sc in next tr. Repeat from * 5 times with the last sc into the 3^rd ch of the ch4 from the previous row, turn your work. (6 v-sts)

Rows four: ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, *ch 1, sk 1 st, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 tr, ch 1, 1 dc] in the ch1 sp of the v-st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next sc. Repeat from * 5 times with the last sc into the last st, turn your work. (6 full clusters)

Row five: ch 4 (counts as a turning ch and the first tr), 1 dc in 1^st sc, *ch 1, sk 2 sts, 1 sc in next tr, ch 1, 1 tc in next sc, ch 1, 1 dc in 2 strands of the lower side of tr just made to create a v-stitch, ch 1, 1 sc in next tr. Repeat from * 4 times. 1 tc in last sc, 1 dc in 2 strands of lower tr just made (no ch 1 here), turn your work. (5 full v-sts 2 half v-sts).  

Row six: ch 4, 1 dc in first dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next st, *ch 1, sk 1 st, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 tr, ch 1, 1 dc] in the ch1 sp of the v-st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 sc in next sc. Repeat from * 4 times to last 3 sts, [1 dc, 1 tc] into the 3^rd ch of the ch4 from the previous row, turn your work. (5 full clusters and 2 half clusters)

Rows seven to sixty-two: repeat rows three to six.

Rows sixty-three to sixty-five: repeat rows three to five.

Rows sixty-six: repeat row six, but finish the very last stitch with 2 dc’s (rather than 1 dc, 1 tr), turn your work.

Row sixty-seven: ch 1, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, *1 sc in ch1 sp, 1 sc in next sc, 1 sc in ch1 sp, 1 sc in next dc, 1 sc in ch1 sp, 1 sc in tc, 1 sc in next ch1 sp, 1 sc in next dc. Repeat from * (working 1 sc into each stitch and each ch1 sp) to the end of the row, finishing with 1 sc in dc and 1 sc in 4^th ch of ch4 from the previous row. Fasten off and darn in the tail ends.

Button 1.25” to 1.5” (3.5 to 4 cm) in diameter

Place button 6” (15 cm) from the bottom edge and 1.5” (4 cm) in from the side. You can add two more buttons if desired as shown above.

I have created a video tutorial for this pattern that also shows the different ways to wear this cowl.

This Fall Cowl can also be worn sort of like a ‘scarfette’. I know that isn’t a word, but maybe it should be! Essentially, it can lay over the shoulders like a scarf and then fasten up in the middle of the chest. If you don’t want to add buttons to the cowl, then you could use a scarf pin instead.

There will be enough yarn leftover from this project to crochet a pretty headband. I created a very easy tutorial for this. There is also the option to add a flower to the headband. You can check out that tutorial here. And if you want to add a flower, I have a tutorial for that too!

I also created a couple of other crochet projects using this yarn:

• Bohemian Hat Tutorial
• Bohemian Scarf Tutorial

The post How to Crochet a Fall Cowl ~ Free Pattern appeared first on Create and Crochet.

The yarn I am using is the Red Heart Comfort in Argyle Print, which is a variegated yarn with all these warm, fall colors blended in. It is a number four, medium weight, acrylic yarn. I found this large ball of yarn (649 yards of 593 meters) at Michael’s Canada, but I haven’t been able to find the same yarn online. I did find a very similar style in the Red Heart line (but it doesn’t have the blue and is a smaller ball), and I will put a link to that below in the supply list.

You can really use any yarn you like, but to achieve the same size as mine, you will want to choose a number four medium weight yarn. The scarf measures 7.5″ (19 cm) wide by 66″ (167″) long.

The stitches you need to know for this project are a chain stitch, a single crochet, and a double crochet, so it is great for beginners. If you are new to crochet, I do have my Beginner Crochet Series that teaches you everything you need to know to crochet this scarf.

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Number 4 medium weight yarn (about 400 yards or 355 meters)
• Crochet hook 5.5 mm or I-9
• Scissors
• Darning needle

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

The crochet stitch that I am using for this tutorial is known as an Arcade Stitch or an Arch Stitch. It can be made using five or seven double crochets in the arch. Because the Red Heart yarn is so chunky, I am using five double crochets to create the arch.

The pattern repeat is six stitches, so if you wanted to make the scarf wider, you could do so by adding six stitches for each repeat desired. I am using a simple single crochet border for the top and bottom of the scarf, but you could add tassels or crochet a fancier edge if you like.

Check out the full tutorial below. You can watch the video here on this page or click over to YouTube! Enjoy!

I hope you enjoy this tutorial, I sure enjoyed making it. I will be creating a matching hat for this scarf, so make sure to subscribe to my newsletter here or to my YouTube channel, so you don’t miss out!

If you like this tutorial, you may also like:

• Crochet Scarf for Beginners
• Ferris Wheel Crocheted Scarf
• Colorful Crocheted Scarf

Sharing is caring! Click on the social share icon and pick an image below to share on social media.

The post Easy Crocheted Fall Scarf appeared first on Create and Crochet.