This blanket is 18″ by 24″, which is a specific size that my local cat rescue center requested. They like this size because it can be used both as a comfy, cozy blanket or folded in half to be a 18″ by 12″ comfort pad. I do have a tutorial for a comfort pad pattern here, because those are often requested as well. If you are new to crochet, make sure to check out my Beginner Crochet Series here.

I don’t have a written pattern for this project, as my cognitive health is still challenged, and writing patterns is very difficult. But this is an easy and straight forward pattern using a double crochet stitch. I do have a couple of little tricks that help to make this a very nice blanket. The step-by-step video tutorial is at the bottom of this page.

I don’t have a supply list because it will depend on what size blanket your local shelters request. This pattern is easy to adjust to any size you like and you can use any yarn you like as well. You can see above, I did one using scrap yarn, and another with light and dark purple. If you want to use scrap yarn, I have a tutorial on how to do a magic knot here, which is a great way to join all your pieces of yarn together.

This Crocheted Comfort Blanket for Pet Rescue Centers is an enjoyable project. I like to make them because I find this hobby very relaxing and sometimes want to do “mindless” crocheting. I like simple patterns, random colors and I like using up bits and bobs of yarn. In my last tutorial for comfort pads, some people commented that cats might get their claws caught in the material. I can assure you this is not an issue! Check out the video below for a very inspiring story that debunks that idea.

Most of all, I love making these cozy comfort blankets and pads to give a little bit of love to animals who might be feeling stressed or lonely as they wait for adoption. So, get out your crochet hooks and yarn and spread a little love!

I hope you enjoy this tutorial on Crocheted Comfort Blanket for Pet Rescue Centers.

If you are interested in crocheting comfort mats, you can check out my video tutorial below!

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I don’t have a written pattern for this project, the video tutorial is below, but if you are looking for the stitch pattern used for the center panel, it is called a zigzag lozenge stitch. You can crochet the whole blanket with this stitch pattern (which I will call version one), but I had to make the two side panels different (which I will call version two) because I injured my shoulder and it was too painful to do the “tog” stitch that creates the flower look in the pattern.

I love this crochet stitch pattern and given the choice, I would have made the whole blanket with this pattern. But I am happy with how the “Crocheted Spring Lap Blanket for Donation” turned out…it was a successful creative solution! You can make this blanket using any combination of colors you like, or any yarn you like. It is a great way to use up scrap yarn as well. Scroll down to the image below to see the pillow on the chair beside me with the same stitch pattern.

The blanket is 30″ by 30″, but you can make this project any size you like! I’ve supplied the amount of yarn needed for both versions of the blanket below. I no longer do affiliate links, but the best place to find Bernat Premium Yarn in Canada is Walmart and in the USA at Yarnspirations.

Supply List

• Bernat Premium Yarn
  • Spring Green- Version one: 300 yds or Version two: 500 yds
  • Magenta, Sky Blue, Hot Pink, Gold- Version one: 500 yds or Version two: 300 yds
• Crochet hooks- Version one: 5mm & 4.5mm or Version two: same for the center panel and 4.5mm & 4mm for side panels.
• Scissors
• Darning needle

The video tutorial will demonstrate the above stitch pattern, and at the end, I talk you through how to make the side panels using the half-double crochet V stitch. I have a video tutorial for that below and you can see how I continued with the same color sequence, but I used more green yarn in this pattern. The video will explain all the details.

I sewed the three panels for the “Crocheted Spring Lap Blanket for Donation” using the whip stitch. I have a video tutorial for that below, but I sewed into both the front and top loops of these panels, whereas the tutorial demonstrates sewing into the top loop only. It’s an easy modification to make.

My injury forced me to be creative and I was very pleased with how the blanket turned out… and you have two versions to choose from!

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I have been making my mats 12″ x 18″ and some as long as 24″. You can contact your local pet shelters to see what sizes they need. I use three strands of number four, medium-weight yarn so the mats are nice and thick. This is a great project to use up scraps of yarn and all your odds and sods. The pattern is a simple single crochet stitch, so it’s perfect for beginners. However, if you are new to crochet, I suggest checking out my Beginner Crochet Series and working with one strand of super chunky yarn.

While I am using three strands of the same weight yarn, you could combine weights, such as a strand of number five, one of number four, and one of number three. You could use two strands of number five yarn or one strand of a super chunky yarn. Just think soft, thick, and comfy!

You can have a lot of fun combining colors too! I always have a variegated color yarn or a ball of scrap yarn joined with magic knots, along with two solid colors. The multiple colors with the solid colors create a fun and surprising pattern. Crocheting these Comfort Mats to Donate to Pet Rescue Centers is such a great way to use up yarn and provide warmth and coziness in what can be a stressful environment.

Supply List

• 120 to 130 yards (each) of a number 4 medium-weight yarn
  • Scrap yarn joined with magic knots (see tutorial below on how to do the magic knot)
  • Bernat Super Value Topaz
  • Bernat Super Value Denim Heather
• 8 mm (L-11) crochet hook
• Scissors
• Darning needle
• Stitch markers (optional)

I no longer use affiliate links, but you can check out Yarnspirations USA for the Bernat Yarn, or in Canada, you can use this link.

I have created a video tutorial with a few special tips like how to fix a loop of yarn that doesn’t make it into the crochet work, how to measure your foundation chain properly, how to start the first row in the back bump, and how to finish the mat. Check that out below!

The Pattern for 12″ x 18″ Comfort Mat

Ch 24, plus 1 for turning ch

Row one: 1 sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook, *1 sc in next back bump. Repeat from * to the end of the row (24 sc), ch 1, turn.

Row 2: 1 sc in first sc (under both loops), *1 sc in next sc (under both loops). Repeat from * to the end of the row (24 sc), ch 1, turn.

Row 2 to 40: repeat Row 2

Using three colors of yarn can create a lot of fun color combinations. You can see a few examples down below. The mat on the left was made using a variegated yarn of burgundy, copper, blue, and green, along with a solid tan (Bernat Super Value Topaz) and a medium purple color from my stash. The mat on the left was made using a variegated yarn of burgundy, red, yellow, purple, teal, and green, along with the solid Bernat Super Value in Topaz and Forest Green. I absolutely love how all these colors create such a different look!

Crocheting Comfort Mats to Donate to Pet Rescue Centers is a wonderful thing to do. I have so many scrap yarns in my stash, and this is such a great project to use those up as well. Here is a tutorial on how to make the magic knot to tie all those pieces together! Always test your knot!!!

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There has been some concern in the comment section of my YouTube channel about pets getting their claws caught in the crochet work. There have been many more comments assuring that this is not a problem. The best testimonial comes from 99-year-old Gladys Wheeler, who has made thousands of crocheted blankets for donation over the last 17 years!

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I do offer a few unique tips in this pattern that help to create a perfect finish for this blanket. If you are new to crochet, then you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series, which shows you everything you need to know to make this project. You will learn how to hold proper tension, all the basic stitches, and how to darn in your tail ends. This granny square blanket is a new and improved version of the very first Granny Square Blanket Pattern I created. In the first pattern, I am using a self-striping yarn, and you can certainly use a similar type of yarn in this project as well. Rather than changing colors for every round and every other round, you’d just carry on using the same yarn.

I am using the Bernat Premium yarn for this project, but you can use any number four medium-weight yarn you like. You can use this color palette, or create your own. I did a total of twenty-eight rounds which made the blanket 33″ x 33″ (84 cm x 84 cm), but you can make it any size you like. Another choice you have is to finish the last two rounds of the blanket with a different colored yarn, or perhaps use the neutral cream color. I made this blanket in the spring (which has been very cold and wet here in the Pacific Northwest), so the color pallet I chose was probably an unconscious desire for spring to finally arrive!

Helpful Information

Finished size = 33″ x 33″ (84 cm x 84 cm) with a total of 28 rounds

Total amount of yarn used (approximately) = 860 yards (790 meters)

• ch = chain
• st = st
• sl st = slip stitch
• dc = double crochet
• beg = beginning

Again, the yarn I am using for the Easy Granny Square Blanket for Beginners is Bernat Premium Yarn which is a number four medium-weight acrylic yarn. Each ball weighs 7 oz (198 g) and has 360 yds (329 m) of yarn per ball. I will list the approximate yardage used for each color in the supply list.

Supply List

• Bernat Premium Yarn in the following colors (Yarnspirations carries all the colors except Magenta, so Hot Pink would be a good substitute. These yarns are also available from Walmart in Canada, but the color selection online is limited.
  • Aran (cream) 260 yds (238 m)
  • Magenta (pink) 210 yds (192 m)
  • Spring Green 105 yds (96 m)
  • Gold (yellow) 130 yds (120 m)
  • Sky Blue 155 yds (142 m)
• H-8 (5 mm) crochet hook
• Scissors
• Darning needle
• Hand steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Round one: Aran-ch 5, sl st into beg ch to create a ring, ch 2 (counts as beg dc), 2 dc into ring, ch 2. *3 dc, ch 2 into the ring, repeat from * two more times. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc. This is tip number one! By joining into the top of the dc, rather than the beg ch2, the beginning cluster looks more like all the other clusters.

Turn your work. This is tip number two! For the entire pattern, you will turn your work for each round. This is a wonderful technique to help prevent the blanket from becoming twisted and wonky. A common problem with blankets that are worked in the round (going in the same direction), is that the tension of the stitches can pull the whole project in one direction. This can be an issue for people who are still mastering their crochet tension. By turning your work with each round, the tension is balanced and this technique also creates a nice texture to the blanket.

If you are proficient with your tension and don’t want to turn your work with each round, then you can certainly just continue crocheting in the same direction, but I actually really like how this technique looks.

Round two: (after turning your work), sl st into ch2 sp. Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), [ 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in ch2 sp, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in next ch2 sp. Repeat from * two more times. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc, fasten off. Turn your work.

NOTE: If you want to use just one color of yarn or want to use a variegated or self-striping yarn, do not fasten off here. Simply turn your work and continue to work the pattern in continuous rounds. Each new round will start with a beginning 3 dc cluster along the straight edge.

Round three: Magenta-Join into any ch2 sp with a sl st, ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), [2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in same ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1], in next ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * two more times. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc, turn your work.

Round four: Sl st into ch1 sp. Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), 2 dc, ch 1 in same ch1 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in next ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, twice. Repeat from * two more times, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in next ch2 sp. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc, fasten off. Turn your work.

Round five: Aran-Join into any ch2 sp with a sl st, ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), [2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in same ch2 sp, *3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, 3 times, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1], in next ch2 sp. Repeat from * two more times, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, 3 times. Skip the beg ch2 and join with a sl st into the top of the next dc, fasten off and turn your work.

Rounds six and seven: Spring Green-repeat rounds three and four, and increase the sets of 3 dc on the straight edge for each round.

Round eight: Aran-repeat round five, and increase the sets of 3 dc, on the straight edges for each round.

NOTE: Each time you join a new color, join into a ch2 sp. This makes it easier to darn in your tail ends by having two dc clusters to sew into (for the most part). This is tip number three!

Continue to repeat rounds three and four with the Gold and Sky Blue, and repeat round five, using Aran, between the colored rounds. Again, you can continue to repeat the color sequence for as many rounds as you like.

For my blanket, I repeated the color sequence twice and then did one more round with the Aran color and one with the Magenta. The last round is simply done with double crochets. Whichever color you choose to have as your final round, use that color for the last two rounds…the granny square stitch round and the border round.

For the final round, join as before…sk beg ch2, sl st into the next dc, but don’t turn your work. Ch 2, 1 dc in the next st, 5 dc in the next ch2 sp, 1 dc in each st to the next corner. Repeat all the way around. You can fasten off with a slip stitch and darn in all your tail ends, or you can finish with an invisible stitch as shown below. This is tip number four!

Cut a tail, take the yarn off your hook, and thread on a darning needle. Sk beg ch2 and bring the needle in from the back of the next dc, going under two loops. Bring the needle back in between the ‘v’ stitch of the stitch the yarn comes out of. Adjust the yarn to look like a stitch. Darn in your tail ends and your Easy Granny Square Blanket for Beginners is done!

If you like this pattern, you may also like:

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I will provide a pattern for this scarf and for a small blanket. There will be enough yarn with the five balls shown below to make either of these projects. The scarf measures 9″ by 78″ or 23 cm by 197 cm, and the blanket measures 27″ by 39″ 68.5 cm by 99 cm (roughly based on the choice of yarn and crochet tension). This does not include the border because I give you four different options for a border, so that will be different depending on your choice of finish.

If you are new to crocheting, I do suggest starting with my Beginner Crochet Series to learn all the basic stitches and skills required for this project.

The yarn I am using for this project is the Loops and Threads Impeccable line which is exclusive to Michaels. I live in Canada and this is where I got my yarn, but I wasn’t able to get onto a US website for Michaels. So I can only assume that Michaels in the US also carries this line. If not, you can simply choose a similar color scheme in a different brand.

I do suggest, however, that you stay within one brand of yarn because it is important that the yarn is the same weight. This is a number 4 medium-weight acrylic yarn and I have noticed that the rating for this weight of yarn can vary quite a bit. Some are closer to a number 3 weight, and others are closer to a number 5 weight. In order to get the correct size in the granny squares, all the yarn must be the same size.

I suggest using five different colors, with four of them being within a given color palate and then one neutral color. Here I chose reds, so I have a deep burgundy, red, dark pink, light pink, and then cream as the neutral. See the exact colors in the supply list below.

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = st
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half-double crochet
• dc = double crochet

The Supplies you will need are:

• 5 balls of number 4 medium weight yarn. The colors (and brand) I used are:
  • Michaels Brand Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn: Acrylic 245 yards/ 4.5 oz (260 m/127.5 g) per ball. The links below are for Michaels Canada. See the color chart for individual colors.
    • Burgundy
    • Claret
    • Rich Orchid
    • Soft Rose
    • Golden Beige
  • 5 mm H-8 crochet hook
  • 5.5 mm to 6 mm (I-9 to J-10) crochet hook
  • Darning needle
  • Scissors
  • Hand Steamer

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Above is the color scheme for panel A. Each panel is made using one 9″ (23 cm) granny square with 7 rounds, two 4.5″ (11.5 cm) granny squares with 3 rounds, and six 3″ (7.5 cm) granny squares made with 2 rounds. The size of each of the three squares is achieved using different size crochet hooks. The largest square and the smallest squares are made using the 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook and the medium size square is made using a crochet hook that is a half to one size bigger than the large and small squares. I found the 6 mm (J-10) size hook worked best for me, but this will depend on your choice of yarn and crochet tension.

The above panel is the color scheme for panel B. Between these two color schemes, you can make all sorts of projects. You can use a different color palette if you like, but use the tones from darkest to lightest, in the same way that I did here. This ensures you don’t repeat any of the same colored squares side by side throughout any design.

The above drawing shows how to lay the panels out for both the scarf and the baby blanket. If you wanted to make a larger blanket, just continue to add panels in the same way until you have the size you desire. You could use the panels to make a pocket shawl (design not shown) by doing a row just like the scarf but using three panels only. Then create another row laying the panels out starting with panel B. Do B, A, B, and then join those two rows together. You can make a couple of pockets for each end with the granny square pattern, probably with five rounds. You can also add tassels to both the scarf and pocket shawl if desired. Be playful and creative!

You may already know how to crochet granny squares, so you can then use the knowledge to this point to create whatever project you like. I have been perfecting my granny square pattern, and I have a couple of little tips that make for a perfect granny square, so you can check that out in the pattern and directions below. Please forgive the quality of the photos, as I (again) forgot to take photographs as I was filming this pattern. I have grabbed clips from the video footage for these images.

Granny Square Pattern

Round one: ch 5, sl st into the first ch to create a ring. Ch 2 (counts as middle dc), 1 dc into the ring, ch 2, *[3 dc, ch 2] into the ring. Repeat from * 2 times. 1 dc into the ring (this completes the first 3dc cluster for a total of four 3dc clusters). Sk 2 ch’s, join with a sl st into the top of the first dc, fasten off.

Round two: Join new color into a ch2 sp with a sl st, [ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp. Repeat from * 2 times, 1 dc into the beg ch2 sp. Sk 2 ch’s, join with a sl st into the top of the first dc, fasten off.

Round three: Join new color into a ch2 sp with a sl st, [ch 2, 1 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] into the ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 2 times, 1 dc into the beg ch2 sp. Sk 2 ch’s, join with a sl st into the top of the first dc, fasten off.

Rounds four to seven: repeat round three, increasing the number of 3 dc clusters along each straight edge.

For the last round of each size square, finish with an invisible stitch. I have a video tutorial here and directions below.

Rather than finishing the last round with a slip stitch, you can finish with the invisible finish. This eliminates the knot for the last round and makes it easier to join the granny squares together. This is not necessary but is a nice option. Complete the last double crochet of the last round, cut a tail, and pull the yarn through the loop on the hook. Thread on a darning needle and bring the needle from behind under two stitches of the double crochet you normally fasten off into. Bring the needle back down in between the V-stitch of the stitch the yarn is coming out of. Snug up the ‘mock stitch’ and darn in your tail end.

Once you have made all the granny squares for each panel and darned in all your tail ends, you can begin to join the granny squares together. Follow the pattern shown at the top of this post for the layout and use any stitch you like to join the squares together. I am using the whip stitch and picking up the top loop of each square only. This creates a nice frame for each square. You can whip stitch into both loops, or use any other joining technique you like!

Cut a length of yarn that is double the length of the seam you are sewing together, plus a few inches for tails on each end to darn in. I like to lay my squares out as shown above and begin my whip stitch in the outermost chain of the chain two space, coming in from the back of the top square. I then come down to the lower square and bring the needle in from the front of the stitch, going into the next chain of the chain two space.

I then bring the needle up into the next stitch of the top square, coming in from the back of the stitch. and then bring the needle down into the next stitch of the bottom square, coming in from the front of the stitch. Repeat this along the full seam and darn in the tail ends.

You will see at the bottom of the image of panel A, the stitch count for each square and sets of squares. Because the squares are different sizes, the stitch count will be different. The 9″ square has 31 stitches, so when you join that to the two 4.5″ squares which have only 28 stitches, you need to make them fit together. I suggest skipping one ch1 stitch on either end of the 9″ square, and using the whip stitch in the seam of the two 4.5″ squares as an extra stitch.

The six 3″ squares will have 30 stitches, so you can skip one ch1 stitch on each end of this section when joining it to the section of 4.5″ squares. I explain this more in the video tutorial if this sounds too complicated. But these are all the little tricks that help to bring different size squares together to create one uniform piece of fabric.

Once you have the panels sewed together, you can use the hand steamer to block the panels. You can also just wait until the project is finished to do this step. Then you can join the panels to create the project of your choice. Here I have joined four panels end to end to create the scarf. You can be done at this point or add a border of some sort.

There will be enough yarn left from the five balls of yarn to create a variety of borders for the scarf, but there may only be enough yarn left to do a simple single crochet border around the blanket. This will depend on your choice of yarn and your tension. You will have to make that call yourself. I have four different border ideas below. You can crochet into just the top loop of each stitch as shown below, or you can pick up both stitches. This is up to you. I like how crocheting into the top loop creates a ‘frame’ so to speak.

Single Crochet Border: join with a sc into the top loop (or both loops) of any st, 1 sc in the top loop (or both loops) of each st to the first corner, 2 sc in each ch of ch2 sp, or 4 sc in ch2 sp if crocheting into both loops (4 sc’s around the corner). Continue all the way around, join with the invisible finish into the beg sc. Darn in the tail ends.

Half-Double Crochet Border: join with a sl st into the top loop (or both loops) of any st, ch 2. 1 hdc into the top loop (or both loops) of each st to the first corner. 2 hdc in each ch of ch2 sp, or 4 hdc in ch2 sp if crocheting into both loops (4 hdc’s around the corner). Continue all the way around, join with the invisible finish as shown with the granny square pattern, but going into the beg hdc. Darn in the tail ends.

Double Crochet Border: join with a sl st into the top loop (or both loops) of any st, ch 2. 1 dc into the top loop (or both loops) of each st to the first corner. 2 dc in 1st ch of ch2 sp, 1 dc into ch2 sp, 2 dc in 2nd ch of ch2 sp, or 5 dc in ch2 sp if crocheting into both loops (5 dc’s around the corner). Continue all the way around, join with the invisible finish as shown with the granny square pattern. Darn in the tail ends.

Granny Square Stitch Border: for this border, just follow the same pattern for the granny squares themselves. You can join on with a ch 2 in any ch1 sp or in the corner as before. Finish in the same way. I do, however, have a suggestion for a simple change. I always eliminate the ch 1 in between the clusters of 3dc when doing a border. This sort of ‘snugs up’ the last round. It is totally dependent on your crochet tension, and if you tend to have tight tension, then this may not work for you. Just give it a try and see how it looks, you will be able to tell fairly soon if you like this change. If not, just use the ch 1 as usual.

What I love about crochet is that you can change things up in countless ways. The stitch patterns are guidelines, but there are so many variations that can be used in any crochet project you make. I’ve given you lots of ideas here and lots of room to play around! I hope you enjoy this tutorial, and as I only post one tutorial every three or four weeks, you may want to subscribe to my newsletter so you don’t miss out!

If any of the above directions are unclear, you can find more details in the video tutorial. Enjoy! Please give the video and thumbs up and subscribe to my YouTube channel…I would be most grateful!

If you like this pattern, you may also like:

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As I mentioned, this crocheted basket weave blanket is quite a dense pattern which means it uses a lot of yarn. The dimensions of the blanket I made measure 30″ by 30″ (76 cm by 76 cm) and used a total of 1080 yards (990 m) of yarn! I was planning to make the blanket another 6″ (15 cm) higher, but I’ve actually developed carpal tunnel syndrome in my crochet hand, so I had to stop at 30″. The stitches used in the pattern do require a fair bit of wrist action, so if you have any tendency towards hand or arm issues, then I would give this project a pass. As always, there is a video tutorial for this pattern and you can find that at the bottom of this post.

Helpful Information

• st = stitch
• yo = yarn over
• ch = chain
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = hdc
• dc = dc
• fpdc = front post double crochet
• bpdc = back post double crochet
• Guage: 13 sts = 4″ (10 cm) and 8.58 rows = 4″ (10 cm)
• Pattern repeat = 6 stitches

Special Stitches

The following stitches are raised stitches that create the textured look of a basket weave. When referring to the dc post from the previous row, that could be either a fpdc or bpdc, depending on where you are in the pattern.

Front post double crochet (fpdc): Yo, place hook under next dc post from the previous row, working from the right to left. The hook will be behind the post. Yo, pull the yarn behind the post (3 loops on your hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, twice.

Back post double crochet (bpdc): Yo, place hook over top the next dc post from the previous row, working from the right to left. The hook will be in front of the post. Yo, pull the yarn from behind the post, over top the front of the post, (3 loops on your hook), yo, pull through 2 loops, twice.

These are somewhat tricky stitches, so the video tutorial can be helpful to figure them out.

Supplies required for this project:

• 3 balls of Bernat Premium Yarn ~ Soft Heather Grey
  • or 1080 yards (990 m) of a number 4 medium weight yarn
• H-6 US (5 mm) crochet hook
• I-9 US (5.5 mm) crochet hook (optional)
• Stitch markers
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Hand Steamer (optional)

Note: Bernat Premium Yarn seems to only be available at Walmart or Yarnspirations. Each ball is made of 100% acrylic yarn, is 7 oz (198 g) in weight, and has 360 yards (329 m) of yarn per ball. Any number 4 medium-weight yarn can be used.

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Begin with a very loose chain of 101 chains. It is important for the foundation chain to be very loose, so if needed, use a larger crochet hook (say I-9 or 5.5 mm) for this part. The pattern repeat is 6 stitches, so at this point, you can either add or subtract 6 stitches to make the blanket a different width. Once you have the desired chain length, ch 1 and turn your work. Go back to the H-8 or 5 mm crochet hook if you were using a larger hook.

Row one: 1 sc in the second st from the hook (work into the back bump of the ch st), 1 sc into the back bump of each ch to the end of the row (101 sc’s).

Row two: Ch 3, turn your work (count’s as first dc), sk first st, 1 dc in the next sc. 1 dc in each sc to the end of the row (101 dc). From here on in, each row will be 101 stitches. You can count if you like, but the pattern will keep you on track.

Row Three: Ch 3, turn your work (counts as first dc), sk first st, *1 fpdc in next st, 3 times (3 fpdc), 1 bpdc in next st, 3 times (3 bpdc), repeat from * to the last 4 sts, 1 fpdc in next st, 3 times, 1 hdc in the last st (see two images below)

Showing how these stitches work in photographs is a bit tricky, but again the video shows this much better.

As you come to the end of row three, you will have 4 stitches left and should finish this row with a set of 3 fpdc’s and 1 hdc in the last stitch as written in the directions. You’ve now set up the blanket for the pattern repeat.

Rows four through seven will be the pattern repeat, and I do recommend using a stitch marker at the beginning of each pattern repeat.

Row four: Ch 2, turn your work, sk first st, * 1 bpdc in next st, 3 times, 1 fpdc in next st, 3 times. Repeat from * to the last 4 sts, 3 bpdc in next st, 3 times, 1 hdc in last st.

Row five: repeat row four.

Row six: Ch 2, turn your work, sk first st, *1 fpdc in next st, 3 times, 1 bpdc in next st, 3 times. Repeat from * to the last 4 sts, 1 fpdc in next st, 3 times, 1 hdc in last st.

Row seven: Repeat row six.

Rows eight to sixty-three: Repeat the pattern of rows four through seven, fifteen times. Of course, you can carry on and do as many four-row repeats as you like until you get to the desired height. Once you’ve reached the desired height, then follow the directions for rows sixty-four and sixty-five to finish the blanket.

When you come to the end of a ball of yarn, you can either join the yarn using a magic knot (see video tutorial here) or just join the new yarn at the top of a double crochet stitch. Bring the new piece through the last two loops of the stitch and carry on. Darn in the tail ends.

Row sixty-four: Repeat row four.

Row sixty-five: Ch 1, turn your work, 1 sc in each stitch to the end of the row. Fasten off.

Darn in all your tail ends and you are all done! At this point, you can either use a hand steamer to block the blanket or wash it according to the yarn directions and lay it flat to dry. This pattern is quite textured and therefore, doesn’t need a border. If you want to add a border, then that would be fun too!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern and have fun making this very warm and cozy crocheted basketweave blanket! Make sure to subscribe to my newsletter so you don’t miss out on any future projects.

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The instructions for designing your own blanket are for patterns that are in rows, and not in rounds like granny square patterns. Therefore, you can use any stitch pattern you like that works in rows, and then adapt that pattern for your blanket. You can also combine stitch patterns to create a very unique design. I will talk about that later, but I do refer to this at the bottom of each calculation sample I give here. To begin, however, I would recommend that you start with a very basic stitch design. You can find all sorts of stitch patterns on YouTube and also in books like the Crochet Stitch Dictionary, by Sarah Hazel.

How to design a crocheted blanket begins with creating a test swatch. This will give you all the information you need to figure out how many pattern repeats you need, how many stitches you need for your foundation chain, how many rows are required, and how much yarn is required for your project. It can also show you what the pattern looks like, how the yarn color looks, and whether you like it or not. You can use any yarn you like and use the recommended crochet hook for that yarn, or a different size if you desire.

All stitch patterns will be in multiples. This means there are a certain number of stitches for the stitch pattern itself, plus extra stitches to accommodate off-setting the stitch pattern if needed, and then extra stitches for the turning chain. You need to use this information to calculate how many chains you need for your foundation chain and how many pattern repeats you need to make your blanket the width you desire.

I have three different stitch patterns here for a test swatch and I have the calculations for each one so you can see how this works. The industry standard for a test swatch is 4″ by 4″ or 10 cm by 10 cm, but you can make your swatch any size you like. In this example, the Double V-Stitch has a multiple of 2 stitches (the pattern), plus 2 chains for the turning foundation chain.

The next example is the Tulip Stitch. This stitch pattern has a multiple of 4 stitches (the pattern), plus 5 stitches for the turning foundation chain. You can see the calculations and the swatch sample below.

The next example is the Basket Weave Stitch. This pattern requires the stitch pattern to be offset for the design to work out. Therefore, this multiple is 6 stitches (the pattern), plus 5 stitches (to accommodate the pattern design), plus 2 stitches for the turning foundation chain. You can see the calculation and the swatch sample below.

Once you have created a sample swatch, then you can decide what size blanket you want to make and then move on to the next set of calculations.

You can make a blanket any size you like, but you can see some of the recommended sizes in the chart above. For the samples I will show you, I am using a blanket size of 30″ by 36″. I’m only going to offer imperial measurements here. If you want the metric sizes, then a basic calculation is that 1″ equals 2.5 cm.

The image above shows the calculations required for this next step, and I will provide examples for each pattern in the images below.

Once you have the calculation for the foundation chain, you can actually begin your blanket pattern. You can simply crochet the pattern design until you have the blanket to the height that you desire. If, however, you want to know how many rows are required, then you can follow the calculations below, to see how that is done.

Tip: A common problem when designing any project like this is that tension of the foundation chain can be too tight and the blanket will pull in at the bottom. A good way to remedy this is to do your foundation chain using a crochet hook that is a half to one size larger than what you are using for the pattern. Make sure to switch back after you’ve created the foundation chain! The other option is to crochet the foundation chain with a very loose tension…much looser than your normal tension.

The last calculation is how to figure out how much yarn is required for the size of blanket you are making. This is where you go back to your sample swatch. I will just give one example here, using the Tulip Stitch Swatch. It does mean that you have to unravel your swatch, so make sure you have all your other calculations done before this next step.

Now, that is most of the calculations required to figure out how to design your own crocheted blanket, but there are a couple of other considerations to take into account. The first is whether you want to add a border to your blanket or not. If you want to add a border, then you want to do a round of single crochet all the way around the blanket as a foundation stitch for your border design. I am not going to teach how to do borders in this tutorial, but I do cover this a bit more in the video tutorial. I’m a big fan of simple borders of single crochet, half double crochets, and double crochets.

If you don’t want to do a border, then I recommend that you begin and finish your blanket design with a row of single crochet. This will affect the number of stitches required for the foundation chain, but not to worry…it is quite simple. Follow the direction above to calculate the number of stitches required for the foundation chain, but rather than using the number of recommended stitches for the turning chain in the pattern design, just add one chain for your beginning row of single crochet. You may want to use the larger crochet hook for this row of single crochet as well to prevent the bottom of the blanket from tapering in. Then follow the pattern design as directed (with the exclusion of the turning chains).

If you feel confident in how to design a crocheted blanket using one stitch design, then you can create a blanket using multiple stitch designs. In this case, you would want to make sure that all your stitch designs have multiples that divide equally into each other (again I discuss this more in the video tutorial). For example, you could use a fan stitch with a multiple of 8 stitches, then you could use a V-stitch with a multiple of 4 stitches, then you could do {1 dc, ch 1, sk st}, which is a multiple of 2, and of course, any stitch pattern that is a multiple of 1. This can be a lot of fun and you can create a swatch by playing around with some different stitch patterns.

Just one more thing! If you choose a stitch design that has an uneven shape at the top like the Tulip Stitch, then you will need to even out this edge for the last row. In this case, there is no exact pattern, you will have to figure that out for yourself. For the Tulip Stitch, I did a ch 4 to get the row to the height required. I then did 1 sc, twice, 1 dc, and 1 hdc in each stitch. This worked out perfectly.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial on how to design a crocheted blanket, and if you do and find it of value, you can make a donation here if you like. As I said at the beginning of this blog, I had planned to make this into a course on Udemy (where I have a Boho Poncho Course). Thank you in advance if you do make a donation. Check out the video tutorial below for more detailed instructions!

Some of my favorite things!

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

If you like this tutorial, you may also like:

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I wanted this blanket to look a bit like ocean waves, and that is what inspired my color selection, but by using four different colors, I had a lot of tail ends to darn in! I don’t mind darning in the tail ends, but if you do, then you may want to choose a lovely self-striping yarn. These can be a lot of fun because it is always a surprise as to how the colors work out in the pattern.

I have created this pattern with the option to do a border or not. The stitch is very lovely and doesn’t actually need a border. This makes the crocheted baby blanket for beginners very simple! Check out the video tutorial to see how the blanket looks with or without a border. Also, you can easily modify the size of this blanket to make it any size you like! Simply make your foundation chain longer and add more rows. If you are new to crochet, then you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series here.

The supplies you will need for this pattern are:

• 1300 yards or 1200 meters number 4 medium weight yarn (approximately). I used the following:
  • Bernat Premium Yarn Spring Green
  • Bernat Premium Yarn Robin Egg
  • Bernat Premium Yarn Teal
  • Bernat Premium Yarn Botany Teal
• 5.5 mm or I-9 US crochet hook (optional 6 mm or J-10 for foundation chain)
• Darning needle
• Stitch markers (optional)
• Scissors
• Hand steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

I haven’t been writing patterns lately, but I’ve decided this one is fairly easy to write out…so here it is! As always, I also have a complete video tutorial on YouTube and you can find the link for that at the bottom of the page.

• Blanket size = 30″ by 36″ (76 cm by 91.5 cm)
• Gauge = 12 stitches = 4″ (10 cm), 9 rows = 4″ (10 cm)
• Pattern repeat = 3 stitches plus 1, plus 1 for the turning chain

Create a foundation chain of 85 chains (29″ or 74 cm). This is a multiple of 3 chains, plus 1 (28 x 3 = 84 + 1 = 85). If you want to make the blanket wider, add more chain stitches in multiples of 3, plus 1. If you do not want to add the border, then create a foundation chain of 88 chains. This should make your chain 30″ or 76 cm wide.

It is important that the foundation chain is crocheted using loose tension. If you are not proficient with managing your tension, or if you tend to have tight tension, you can use a crochet hook that is a half to one size larger for your foundation chain. Once you have your desired number of chains, ch 1 for your turning chain and turn your work. If you’ve used a larger crochet hook for this chain, return to the 5.5 mm or I-9 size hook for the rest of the pattern.

Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across (working into the back bump of the chain stitch-see video for demonstration at 4:03). You will have 85 single crochets (or whatever number your foundation chain started with). Ch 1, turn your work.

You can double-check the width of your blanket at this point, sometimes it will change depending on your tension. In this case, unravel and add or subtract stitches to your foundation chain to get your desired width.

Row 2: [1 sc, 2 dc] in first st, *sk 2 sts [1 sc, 2 dc] in next st (3rd st). Repeat from * to last 3 sts, 1 sc in last st, ch 1, turn. (You will have 28 clusters or whatever number of pattern repeats you started with).

Row 3: [1 sc, 2 dc] in first st, *sk 2 sts [1 sc, 2 dc] in next st (in the sc from the previous row). Repeat from * to last 3 sts, 1 sc in last st, ch 1 turn.

Rows 3 to 76: repeat row 3.

You can change the color of yarn as frequently as you like, I changed the color every third row. To add a new color, begin the last sc of the row. Do not complete this sc…leave 2 loops on your hook. Cut your yarn and bring the new color through the 2 loops on your hook with the crochet hook. Snug both tails up, ch 1, turn your work and carry on with the pattern.

Once you have completed 76 rows, you have the choice to add a border or not. If you choose to do a border, then do a ch 1 to fasten off, darn in all your tail ends and proceed to the directions below for the border.

If you choose not to add a border, then you will add one final row of sc. At the end of row 76, ch 1, turn and do 1 sc in each st across, then fasten off. Darn in all your tail ends…and you are done!

The border for this baby blanket is done using a reverse single crochet stitch. Now, unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the next step, but I do show it in the video tutorial below at 18:21.

Starting in the bottom right corner, join on the spring green yarn (or whatever color you used for row 1) by placing the hook through the front of the first stitch in the corner, pull through and do 3 sc’s in the corner space going towards the right edge of the blanket.

Make 1 sc into the ends of the rows of the right side of the blanket, spacing them as evenly as possible. There are no actual stitches to work into here…do the best you can. Pick up 2 strands of yarn for each sc. If you make too many stitches, the side of the blanket will fan-out, if you make too few stitches, it will pull in. This is a bit tricky and you may have to unravel a time or two to get it right (the video tutorial shows this step clearly.)

Continue the row of single crochets up the side of the blanket until you reach the top right corner. If you are happy with the placement of the stitches, work around the corner with 3 sc’s in an obvious space. Again, there will not be an actual stitch to work into here. Place 1 sc in each stitch along the top of the blanket with 3 sc’s in the top left corner. Work down the left side of the blanket placing your sc’s as evenly as possible. Finish with 3 sc’s in the bottom corner and fasten off. See the video tutorial on how to do this at 25:00.

Normally, you would do a round of single crochets on all four sides of a blanket to set up a foundation row for the border. For this pattern, there was already one row of single crochet at the beginning so there would be the option to make the blanket without a border, therefore, we are crocheting around three sides only.

Final round~reverse single crochet: Join with a sl st into any sc and ch 1, then 1 sc in the stitch to the right of the sl st (behind the stitch). *1 sc in the stitch to the right of the sc. Repeat from * all the way around, working from the left to the right. Fasten off with an invisible stitch (see video tutorial for the reverse single crochet at 27:37)

This easy crocheted baby blanket is made using acrylic yarn, so, in theory, it is can be machine washed and dried. I always use a gentle cycle with cold water and then lay the blanket flat to dry, using this as an opportunity to block the blanket. I hope you enjoyed this pattern and tutorial. Please leave a comment below or give it a thumbs up on YouTube!

If you like this pattern, then you may also like:

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The size of this blanket is 32″ by 40″ (81 cm by 101.5 cm), but I will show you how you can modify the pattern to make the blanket 38″ by 46″ (96.5 cm by 117 cm). If you are new to crochet, then you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series to learn everything you need to know for this project. I have also created a video tutorial for this project and you can find that at the bottom of this post.

The supplies you will need for this blanket are:

• Bernat Yarn in 8 different colors: I used the following
  • Premium Line
    • Gold, Iced Aqua, Robin’s Egg, Teal, Baby Lilac, Pink Rose, Hot Pink, Coral Peach.
  • The Premium line above doesn’t seem to be available at this time online, but I did find them at my local Walmart. Here is a list of comparable colors in the Super Value and Satin lines:
    • Bright Yellow (gold), Mint (iced aqua), Sky (robin’s egg), Teal (teal), Lilac (baby lilac), Baby Pink (pink rose), Magenta (hot pink), Soft Red (coral peach)
  • Super Value Line
    • Peony Pink, Aqua
  • Satin Line
    • Grape
• 4 mm or G-6 crochet hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

To begin, crochet six granny squares with six rounds in the following colors: Hot Pink, Baby Lilac, Gold, Teal, Peony Pink, and Iced Aqua. I am not going to demonstrate the traditional granny square pattern here because I’ve already created a video tutorial for this pattern. You can find the tutorial here. I do, however, have the written direction below.

For this blanket pattern, I am turning the square for each round, working in the opposite direction. The reason for this is to help balance the tension of the blanket as it gets bigger. I have a video that demonstrates this here. (I don’t show this in the tutorial for the traditional granny square pattern)

A common problem with crocheted blankets that are made in the round (rather than a pattern that crochets back and forth), is that the blanket can pull in one direction and cause it to warp. This is especially true if you tend to have tight or uneven crochet tension.

An easy solution to this problem is to simply turn your work and crochet in the opposite direction. This actually creates an interesting pattern for the blanket and makes it reversible, especially if you are very neat with darning in your tail ends.

Basic Granny Square Pattern

Round 1: Hot Pink ~ ch 5, sl st in first ch to form a ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, *3 dc, ch 2 in the ring, repeat from * 2 more times, sl st in the 3^rd ch of beg ch 3. Fasten off.

Round 2: Baby Lilac ~ (Optional-turn your work) Join with a sl st in any ch2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in same ch2 sp. * (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in next ch2 sp, repeat from * 2 more times, sl st in the 3^rd ch of beg ch 3. Fasten off.

Round 3: Gold ~ (Optional-turn your work) Join with a sl st in any ch2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in same ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in next ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 2 more times, sl st in the 3^rd ch of beg ch 3. Fasten off.

Round 4: Teal ~ (Optional-turn your work) Join with a sl st in any ch2 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in same ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp 2 times, *(3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in next ch2 sp, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp 2 times. Repeat from * 2 more times, sl st in the 3^rd ch of beg ch 3. Fasten off.

Round 5: Peony Pink ~ Repeat round 4, but increasing sets of 3 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sps between corners.

Round 6: Iced Aqua ~ Repeat round 5.

Crochet 6 squares in this pattern and darn in all your tail ends. When you begin to sew the squares together, keep the side of the square that you fastened off (where the knot is) to the outside of the panels. This way, when you sew your squares together, you won’t have to sew into a knot. (I show this better in the video tutorial below)

Start by sewing the first panel of squares together using a whip stitch (or any method of joining you prefer). Place two squares together with the ‘good side’ up. Cut a piece of yarn 2.5 times the length of the square. Bring the darning needle from the bottom square through the top loop of the first chain of the chain two space (leaving a length of yarn to darn in). Pick up the top loop of the same stitch in the opposing square. Bring the needle around to the bottom square and pick up the top loop of the next chain of the chain two space, and then go into the same stitch in the opposing square.

Continue to sew the squares together, picking up the top loop of each opposing stitch. Keep your stitches nice and even.

Complete the join by sewing into both chains of the chain two space. Darn in your tail ends. Sew the second panel of three squares together in the same way, and then join those two panels together using the whip stitch. The finished center panel will be two squares wide and three squares long. (I’m sorry, I forgot to take a picture of this, but you can see the center panel in the image at the bottom of the post).

When you get to the intersection of the squares, make sure to pick up the whip stitch from the previous join as well.

Once you have joined the six squares together to create the center panel, begin the first row of crochet around the panel. This round will start on the ‘backside’ of the panel with the wrong side facing up, so to speak. If you choose to crochet in the round without flipping your work, then disregard this.

Round 1: Aqua ~ Join with a sl st in any ch1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 1 in same ch1 sp, *3 dc, ch 1 in next ch 1 sp. Repeat to corner. (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1) in ch 2 sp (see image above)

*3 dc, ch 1 in next ch 1 sp (I will refer to this as a granny square stitch from now on) Continue to next square. Work a granny square stitch in each ch 2 sp between squares. Continue with the granny square stitch in each ch 1 sp to the next corner and repeat corner as above. Continue all the way around the blanket. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of the beg ch3. Fasten off.

Round 2: Hot Pink ~ (Optional-turn your work) Join with a sl st in any ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch1 in same ch1 sp. Continue with granny square stitch to the next corner. Work corner as usual and crochet all around the blanket with the granny square stitch and corner patterns. Fasten off as usual.

Row 3: Pink Rose ~ (Optional-turn your work) Repeat row 2.

Rows 4 to 7: Repeat row 2, turning your work for each row (or not) using the following colors in this order: Gold, Grape, Baby Lilac, Grape.

Rows 8 to 11: Repeat row 2, turning your work (or not) using the following colors in this order: Hot Pink, Peony Pink, Coral Peach, Pink Rose.

If you want to make the blanket larger (38″ by 46″), then add 3 more rows after row 11, using the following colors in this order: Coral Peach, Peony Pink, Hot Pink. (This would count as rows 12 to 14).

Then add 5 more rows using the following colors in this order: Teal, Aqua, Robin’s Egg, Aqua, Teal. For the last row of Teal, join with a sl st in the 3rd chain of beg ch3. Do not fasten off. (This would count as rows 15 to 19). Proceed to the final row if you choose this modification, otherwise, continue with the pattern below.

Rows 12 to 14: Repeat row 2, turning your work (or not) using the following colors in this order: Robin’s Egg, Aqua, Teal. For the last row of Teal, join with a sl st in the 3rd chain of beg ch3. Do not fasten off.

Row 15 (or 20): Continuing with the Teal, ch 1, *1 sc in the top loop of the next st. Repeat from * to the corner. (2 sc in the top loop of the first ch1, 2 sc in the top loop of the next ch1). *1 sc in the top loop of the next stitch. Repeat from * to the next corner. Repeat corner as above. Crochet around the blanket with the sc pattern.

You can finish this round in two ways: sl st into beg ch1 and fasten off. Alternatively, you can create an invisible join as shown above.

To do this, complete the last sc and remove the yarn from the hook. Cut a tail about 4 to 6 inches long and pull it through the last stitch. Thread the yarn on a darning needle and bring the needle in from the back of the beg ch 1, going under 2 loops. Then bring the needle down into the middle ‘v’ of the previous sc. Pull the yarn through to the back and adjust the tension so it mimics a stitch. Darn in the tail end and all the others if you haven’t done so.

Then you are done! If you like, you can block the blanket, but I didn’t find it necessary to do so. Follow the washing instructions of the yarn you choose. The Bernat yarn is machine washable and can go in the dryer. I prefer to lay the blanket flat to dry, but that is totally up to you!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, please share this post by choosing a social share button and picking an image from below. Please leave a comment as well!

If you liked this tutorial, you may also like:

• How to Crochet a Small Granny Square Blanket
• Rectangle Granny Square Blanket
• Granny Square Tote Bag (this is Part One of Two)

The post Crochet: Granny Square Blanket Tutorial appeared first on Create and Crochet.

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• 2 balls of ‘Shawl in a Cake’ yarn by Lion Brand-Jade Pool (or yarn of your choice)
• 3mm crochet hook (the closet US version is D-3 or 3.25mm)
• Scissors
• Darning needle

The stitches and abbreviations for this project are:

• Chain Stitch- ch
• Single Crochet- sc
• Double Crochet- dc
• Slip Stitch- sl st
• Skip- sk
• Stitch- st
• Space- sp

While this pattern is suited for beginners, if you have no crochet experience at all, I do recommend my Beginner Crochet Series. In these tutorials, you will learn everything you need to know to make this blanket. I am using a bulkier yarn to demonstrate the first row of this pattern, so it is easier to see.

I will carry on with the actual yarn I’m using for this project at the end of row one. The Lion Brand Shawl in a Cake is called a number 4 medium weight yarn, however, I find it is quite fine and is actually more like a number 3 medium weight yarn. I have a review of this yarn here if you want to know more.

If you are using a different yarn and want the same size and gauge as this project, then I would look for a number 3 weight yarn.

To begin, chain 28.

Row 1: 2dc in back bump of 4th chain from the hook. This is not the top of the ‘V’ in the chain, but the bump behind the ‘V’ shape, ch1.

*sk 2 sts, 3dc in back bump of next st, ch1. Repeat from * 6 more times. There should be 3 chains left.

Work 3dc into the back bump of the last chain, ch2, 3dc into the same space, ch2, 3dc into the same space, ch1. *3dc into space opposite 3dc, ch1. Repeat from * to the end of the straight edge.

Now I’ve gone back to the actual piece with the Shawl in a Cake yarn. Working into the same space of the beginning dc cluster, work 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2. Join this row with a sl st in the 3rd chain of the beginning ch 3.

Row 2: Sl st into the next 2 sts, and into the next ch 1 sp. Ch3 (counts as first dc). 2dc in the same sp, ch1.

*3dc, ch1 in next ch 1 sp. Repeat from * to the next corner (ch 2 sp).

Working into the ch 2 sp corner, *[3dc, ch2, 3dc] (corner complete). Ch1, [3dc, ch2, 3dc] into the next ch 2 sp, ch1, 3dc, ch1 in next ch 1 sp, repeat to next ch 2 sp corner. Repeat from * to complete row.

Coming out of the last corner, ch1 and join row with a sl st in the 3rd ch of beginning ch 3.

Row 3: Sl st over to next ch 1 sp. Ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in same ch 1 sp, ch1. *3dc, ch1 in next ch 1 sp, repeat to next corner (ch 2 sp). [3dc, ch2, 3dc] in ch 2 sp, ch1, 3dc, ch1 in next ch 1 sp to next corner (ch 2 sp), [3dc, ch2, 3dc] in ch 2 sp, ch1, 3dc, ch1 in each ch 1 sp. Repeat from * to complete row. Join with a sl st to beginning ch 3.

Rows 4 to 29: Repeat row 3, increasing 3dc clusters in each ch 1 sp as you go. Join row 29 with a sl st.

Once you have used up one ball of yarn, you can join the second ball by using a magic knot. I have a video tutorial for that here.

I’ve calculated that there is enough yarn to complete row 30 with a dc border and row 31 with a sc border. If you are using a different yarn and are not sure how much you need, crochet 4″ of dc and measure how much yarn you used in that 4″ (I used 64″). Then measure the circumference of your blanket (mine was 140″). Divide 140″ by 4″ to find the number of repeats (35). Multiply 35 by 64″ to equal the total amount of yarn needed to do a dc border around the blanket.

Mine worked out to 2240″ or 62 yards (57 meters). Add a couple of yards for good measure. You can repeat this equation for any stitch you like. I know I need at least 98 yards to complete rows 30 and 31.

Row 30: Sl st over to ch 1 sp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), *1dc in top of each st to corner. 3dc in ch 2 sp, 1dc in next st. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3 to join row.

If you don’t have enough yarn, you can always use another yarn in a complementary color to crochet your border as shown in the sample above.

Row 31: Ch1 (counts as first sc) 1sc in next st, 1sc in each st to the corner. *2sc in next 3 sts, 1sc in each st to next corner. Repeat from * to complete round. Join with sl st and ch1 to fasten off!

Darn in your ends and block the blanket. You can do this by washing the blanket according to the yarn specifications, or in cold water on a gentle cycle. Lay the blanket on a flat surface, like a couple of towels, and hand press into a nice shape and let dry. If you have a proper blocking board, you can use that.

I really love working on crochet projects like this one because the simplicity of the pattern is very relaxing and enjoyable to do. I find it can be quite meditative. I hope you enjoyed this project and don’t hesitate to leave a comment or question below. And if you prefer, I have created a video tutorial as well!

If you liked this project, you may also like:

• How to Crochet a Granny Square Blanket
• Crochet a Granny Square Tote Bag (this is part one of two)
• Easy Crochet Hat for Beginners

Update!

I have noticed a common problem with granny square blankets that are worked in continuous rounds, which is that the blanket sometimes becomes warped and wonky. This question comes up often in some of the crochet Facebook groups I’m in, and also from some of my followers. The problem, if this happens, is caused by tight tension. This can be caused by technique, by the type of yarn used, or by both! I created a video tutorial that explains this a bit more and offers an easy solution.

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The post Rectangle Granny Square Blanket appeared first on Create and Crochet.

Join me for this easy and fun crochet project to learn how to crochet a granny square blanket. This tutorial is suited for beginners as the blanket is simply one big granny square, made from a single cake of yarn. It measures 27″ by 27″ (69 cm by 69cm), although you could carry on with another cake of yarn and make the blanket even bigger. This size is perfect for a baby blanket or a lap blanket.

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For this project, I am using Caron Cotton Cakes ‘Sunset Dreams’ yarn, but it is no longer available. Here is a different option… Caron Jumbo Ombre Yarn in Baby Rainbow. There is the equivalent of 2 balls of yarn here with a total of 595 yards or 544 meters. This ball is larger than the Cotton Cakes, so the blanket should crochet up a bit larger than the one I show here.

The Cotton Cakes is a number 4 medium worsted weight yarn, 60% cotton, and 40% acrylic. The recommended hook size is US H/8 or 5mm, but I’m using a US 7 or 4.5mm hook because I tend to crochet with very loose tension. The Caron Jumbo Ombre is also a number 4 medium weight yarn, but it is 100% acrylic. The same recommendations for the hook size apply to this yarn too.

If you are new to crochet, make sure to check out my Beginner Crochet Series Blog that has 2 video tutorials to show you everything you need to know to make this pretty blanket! I’ve also created a step by step video tutorial for this pattern, so you can follow along with that if you like! You will find it at the bottom of this post.

To begin, ch 5, join with sl st to first ch to form a ring.
1st rnd: Ch 6, *3 dc in ring, ch3, rep from * 2 times in ring, 2 dc in ring, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 6. (Four groups of 3 dc, ch-3 sps in total).

2nd rnd: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 6, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp, *ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp. Rep from * twice more, ch 1, 2 dc in first ch-3 sp, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 6.

3rd rnd: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 6, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp. Rep from * twice more. Ch 1, 2 dc in first ch-3 sp, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 6.

4th rnd: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 6, 3 dc in same ch-3 sp, *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp. Rep from * twice more. Ch 1, 2 dc in first ch-3 sp, join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 6.

Continue with this same pattern, adding one more dc cluster (3 dc, ch 1) to each side of each consecutive round until all the yarn is used. You could also create a border for the last round by doing a row of double crochet. (see below)

I completed 24 rounds altogether and had enough yarn left to do either one more round with the granny square pattern or do a border with double crochet. I chose to finish my blanket with the double crochet.

Final rnd: Sl st in next ch-3 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-3 sp, *1 dc in top of next dc. Rep from * to next ch3 sp. *3 dc in ch3 sp, 1 dc in top of next dc’s to next ch3 space. Repeat from * all around, fasten off.

As I came into the second corner, I had completed two sides of the blanket with yellow. I had enough yellow to go about halfway around the third side, but I decided to cut the yarn and join the pink with a magic knot so I would end up with two sides in yellow and two sides in pink. This is totally up to you, but I show you how to do a magic knot in the video tutorial.

Once you have finished making your blanket, darn in the ends. You can “block” the blanket by washing it in a gentle cycle (follow the manufacturer’s recommendations), and then lay it out flat on a towel to dry. Gently shape the blanket with your hands into a nice square shape.

Enjoy your new creation or give it as a gift! Check out the video tutorial below if you want to follow along step by step. And please share this post with your friends!

Update!

I have noticed a common problem with granny square blankets that are worked in continuous rounds, which is that the blanket sometimes becomes warped and wonky. This question comes up often in some of the crochet Facebook groups I’m in, and also from some of my followers. The problem, if this happens, is caused by tight tension. This can be caused by technique, by the type of yarn used, or by both! I created a video tutorial that explains this a bit more and offers an easy solution.

If you like this tutorial, then you may also like:

• Rectangle Granny Square Blanket
• Ferris Wheel Scarf: Part One (the granny square)
• Ferris Wheel Scarf: Part Two (the scarf assembly)

The post How to Crochet a Granny Square Blanket appeared first on Create and Crochet.