You can find the written pattern for Part One here. It also includes a video tutorial at the bottom of the post.

In this tutorial for my Easy Crocheted Sweater Vest ~ Part Two, we are going to assemble the garment. I do have a video tutorial at the bottom of this post as well, and it will include more comprehensive instructions than I can write here. Make sure to check that out for more details! And of course, Part One includes a list of all the supplies required for this project including the crochet hook, stitch markers, and a darning needle.

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Bring the right sides of the fabric together, lining up the shoulder seams at the top, with the front panels facing each other as shown above. The first rows of the front panels will be at the side seam and the last rows will be facing each other.

Choose a neutral color yarn (I am using the tan color) and measure five times the length of the shoulder seam for your sewing thread. Use a ‘back stitch’ to sew the shoulder seam together (see 2:20 in the video tutorial). Tie a knot and darn in the tail ends.

To sew the side seams together, flip the panels so the wrong sides are now facing each other and the right sides are facing out. Leave a 10″ opening for the armhole and place a stitch marker there. You can make the armhole smaller or larger if you desire.

If you want to create a slit at the bottom of the sweater vest, you can measure up a desired length. I measured 6″ which was 20 stitches. Place a stitch marker there. Then measure a length of yarn that is 2.5 times the length of the seam to be sewn. You can join the sides any way you like, I am using a whip stitch. (See 10:40 in the video tutorial) You could also join the seams together with a slip stitch or single crochet. Fasten off with a knot and darn in the tail ends.

Once the side seams are joined together, the next step is to crochet a simple trim around the front panels and back neck seam. Working into the right side of the bottom front panel, join on your color of choice with a single crochet in the first single crochet and chain 1. Make 1 sc, ch 1 in the next ch1 sp. Continue up the first panel with the same stitch pattern until you get to the neck edge. (see 15:00 in the video tutorial) I am using the cream color yarn to demonstrate for easy viewing, but my color choice is black.

When you get to the top of the panel (I’ve switched to the cream color to demonstrate), work 1 sc, ch 1 into every other row along the collar. You don’t have an actual stitch to work into here, so you need to make the ch1 space as even as possible to replicate the stitch pattern. (see 17:08 in the video tutorial)

Once you’ve worked across the neck edge, continue down the other side of the panel with the same stitch pattern. At the bottom of the panel, ch 2, turn your work and crochet back for a second row. Fasten off and darn in your tail ends, or leave them long enough to include in the tassels. You could crochet more rows of this stitch pattern if you like and make it your own design!

The last step in the Easy Crocheted Sweater Vest ~ Part Two is to do the tassels. With the tail ends tied with a square knot, you already have 2 tassels ready to go. Decide how long you want your tassels to be (I decided on 6″) and make a cardboard jig that is 6″ plus 1″ for the knot. Wrap the yarn around the jig to make your tassels and cut them along the bottom. This will give you a length of yarn 13″ in total. Wrapped in half, this gives you 2 threads per tassel. You also need to decide how full you want the fringe. I decided on a total of 6 finished threads, which meant adding two 13″ threads per tassel. I choose to make one black and one assorted color.

With the front of the sweater vest facing out, place the crochet hook through the back of the square knot. Pull 2 tassels through and lay those tassels, plus the 2 tail ends of the knot away from the loop. Bring all 6 threads through the loop, tighten up the 2 tassels, and wrap the tail ends into the knot. (see 25:15 in the video tutorial)

Use a straight edge to trim the tassel ends, give the garment a gentle steam with a hand-steamer and you are done! If you like, you can place a drop of fabric glue on each knot of the tassels to prevent them from coming undone. I know this was a fairly involved project, but all the steps were very easy! So I hope you enjoyed this pattern for my Easy Crocheted Sweater Vest. Please pick an image from below and share it on your social media platforms!

See the video tutorial below (it might take a moment to load) or pop directly over to my YouTube channel here.

The post Easy Crocheted Sweater Vest ~ Part Two appeared first on Create and Crochet.

The stitch pattern is simply a single crochet and chain one repeat, so it is super easy to make! If you are new to crocheting, then you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series to learn all the stitches and techniques you will need to make this sweater vest.

I am using five different colors in my design, and that is what really makes the fabric look so fabulous, but you can use any number of yarn colors you like! I am also using a number four, medium-weight acrylic yarn, but again, you can use any weight or fiber you like. You will be making three rectangle shape panels for this garment, and these panels can be made to any size you like. You can even use a different stitch pattern if you like…be playful and creative!

The instructions for this pattern are for a small-medium size, so the supply list will reflect that. I will show you how to figure out your sizing below, so you will have to modify the amount of yarn required.

Supply List

• Number 4 medium-weight yarn (roughly)
  • Body: 1125 yards or 1030 meters
  • Trim: 30 yards or 28 meters (of accent color)
  • Tassels: 30 yards or 28 meters (of accent color) and 30 yards or 28 meters (of assorted colors)
• Yarns and colors I used:
  • Bernat Super Value in Topaz: 233 yards or 213 meters
  • Bernat Premium in Black: 285 yards or 261 meters (my accent color)
  • Bernat Premium in Chili: 233 yards or 213 meters
  • Bernat Premium in Almond: 233 yards or 213 meters
  • Redheart Soft in Wine: 233 yards, or 213 meters
• Crochet hook: 5mm or H-8 US
• Stitch markers
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Cloth tape measure
• Hand Steamer

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Gauge for medium-weight yarn

• 4 inches (10 cm) high = 13 rows
• 4 inches (10 cm) wide = 15 stitches

Finished panel sized for small-medium size

• Front panels (make 2): 10 inches (28 cm) wide by 32 inches (82 cm) long
• Back panel (make 1): 24 inches (61 cm) wide by 32 inches (82 cm) long

Custom sizing

To calculate the perfect size for the Easy Crocheted Sweater Vest, you want to begin by measuring around the widest part of your body. For some, this may be the hips, the mid-section, or the bust. This pattern is made to fit a 44-inch hip size. Using the diagram shown, the front panels are 10 inches each and the back panel is 24 inches, making the whole garment 44 inches all the way around. There will be another couple of inches added once the border around the front is added at the end. This makes for a nice, loose, and comfortable fit.

Using this size as a baseline, either add or subtract the difference of your own measurement. So, if for example, your hip size is 40 inches, subtract that from 44 inches. Reduce the pattern by 4 inches, taking 1 inch off each of the front panels and 2 inches off the back panel. Do the same for larger sizes, by adding the difference. If you have an odd number (say 3 inches), divide that by 4 and then add or subtract 0.75 inches for each front panel and add or subtract 1.5 inches for the back panel. To convert these imperial measurements to metric, simply multiply by 2.5 or use an online converter.

The Pattern

Note: if you are using more than one color and want to create tassels on the bottom of the vest, decide what will be the bottom of the garment and leave an extra long tails on this side only. Leave regular-size tails on the shoulder seams.

Foundation chain: ch 117 (or odd number of chains to equal the desired length), ch 3 for turning ch. Note: use loose tension for the foundation chain only, if you are not proficient with managing tension, then use a crochet hook half a size larger. Return to the regular-size hook for the rest of the pattern.

Row one: 1 sc in the back bump of the 4th ch from the loop on your hook, ch 1, sk st, *1 sc, ch 1 in next st, sk st. Repeat from * to the end of the chain, 1 sc in beg ch 3 sp. (117 stitches or number of beginning odd chains)

Row two: new color, ch 2, turn your work, 1 sc, ch 1 in first ch1 sp, sk st, *1 sc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, sk st. Repeat from * to the end of the row, 1 sc in beg ch2 sp.

Note: to add a new color, leave the last sc of the row on your hook halfway completed (2 loops on your hook), cut the tail end, and bring the new color in to complete the last sc, then ch 2 and turn your work. See the video at 14:25 to see how this is done.

Row three onward: repeat row two, changing colors for each row as desired.

The color sequence and the number of rows for the Easy Crocheted Sweater Vest are:

• Front panels: 36 rows in tan, black, chili, almond, and wine. Repeat this color sequence, finishing with row 36 in tan. Whatever number of rows you end up crocheting, finish the last row in the color before the color you are using for your accent color for the trim and tassels. I wanted to use black, so that is why my last row is finished in tan.
• Back panel: 91 rows in almond, wine, tan, black, and chili. Repeat this color sequence, finishing row 91 in almond.

Once you have crocheted all three panels, tie pairs of the tail ends into square knots on both ends of the panels. As you tie these knots, you will notice that the knots naturally fall to one side of the fabric. Consider this the ‘wrong side’ or ‘inside’ of the fabric and place a stitch marker on this side. This will work for the back panel and only one of the front panels, because the other front panel will be flipped to mirror the other. See the video at 23:20 for more clear instructions on this.

Darn in the tail ends into the wrong side of the fabric, along the shoulder seams. On the mirrored panel where the tail ends don’t fall naturally to the inside, do your best to bring those ends to the inside. Leave the bottom tail ends for tassels.

The final step before sewing the garment together is to block the panel pieces. See the video at 23:20 if you are not sure how to do that. This is the end of the Easy Crocheted Sweater Vest ~ Part One. Part Two will soon be available!

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I am using a number 3 light-weight yarn for this crocheted hexagon cardigan, but you can use a number 4 medium-weight yarn if desired. The number of rounds required to make the cardigan to your size will be less than if using a heavier-weight yarn. I am not giving the exact number of rounds or sizes for this pattern, but I will show you how to calculate the size of the cardigan to fit your own body. I am also using imperial measurements for this pattern, so if you want to convert anything to metric, 1″ = 2.5 cm.

Supply List

• #3 light-weight yarn
  • minimum 720 yards (660 meters) of a solid color
  • minimum 240 yards (220 meters) of an accent color
• G-6 (4 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers
• Darning needle
• Scissors
• Tape measure
• Hand-steamer (optional)

The quantity of yarn used for this project is based on a small to medium size (36″ bust), so allow for more yarn for larger sizes. If using a number 4, medium-weight yarn, the quantity of yarn required will be less.

The yarn I used was from a local yarn shop and is no longer available, but here is something similar from Amazon, although I can’t guarantee the true color of these yarns. It’s probably best to go to your local yarn shop to find something you like.

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Sizing Calculations

For the cardigan in a solid color, self-striping, or variegated yarn: Measure your bust around the largest part and divide that measurement by two. Crochet continuous rounds of the hexagon pattern until the straight edge of one of the six sides equals that measurement.

For example, if the bust size measures 36″, divide that by 2 to get 18″. Crochet continuous rounds of the pattern until the outside edges equal 18″. Make two hexagons.

To make the crocheted hexagon cardigan with the striped pattern, use the same calculations as above to get the finished size of each hexagon. Follow the pattern as written below for 9 rounds. Bring two opposite points of the hexagon together to make an “L” shape. This creates half of your cardigan! The below image shows this step using a completed panel, but see the image below that for the comparison.

On the finished hexagon, the measurement across the “L” section of the folded piece will be half the size of the side of the hexagon. In the example below, that would be half of 18″, which is 9″. The next part is a bit tricky to figure out how many rounds of the solid color you will need before you start with the accent color for the striped pattern. This is why you need to crochet the first 9 rounds in the solid color in order to get the measurements needed to make the calculations.

Once you have crocheted 9 rounds, fold it as shown above and measure the width of 8 of those 9 rounds (the 1st of those 9 rounds is hard to measure, so that’s why we did 9 instead of 8). The striped design is created using 8 rounds. The width of those 8 rounds will be specific to you depending on the yarn you are using and your crochet tension. In my example, that measurement equals 4.25″

Subtract that measurement from the finished width of your folded section. In my example, I will subtract 4.25″ from 9″ to get how wide the solid color part of the body should be. That measurement will be 4.75″ in my case. Continue to crochet rounds of the solid color until the body equals this measurement. For my cardigan, the first 9 rounds equal 4.75″, so I would start the striped pattern after round 9.

To give another example, if your bust measurement is 40″, your final long side of the hexagon will be 20″. Once the panel is folded into an “L” shape, the middle section will measure 10″. Subtract 4.25″ (or whatever the measurement of your 8 rounds of the center section are) from 10″. This would be 5.75″, so that is how wide the “L” shape of the middle section needs to be before you start the accent color. Based on my tension and yarn, that would be another 2 rounds of the solid color.

Important note: these measurements are subjective and you can certainly make the garment bigger if desired. I would not make it smaller though, as these measurements are for a more ‘fitted’ garment. If in doubt, add a round rather than subtract one.

The Pattern

Round one: ch 5, join with a sl st to create a ring, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, [3 dc, ch 2] in ring 5 times (6-3dc clusters), join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of beg ch3, turn your work.

Round two: ch 3 (counts as first dc), [2 dc in first ch2 sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same ch2 sp, ch 1] (first corner made) *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1 in next ch2 sp], repeat from * 4 times (6 corners made), join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of beg ch3, turn your work.

Round three: ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in first ch1 sp, ch 1, *[3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in next ch2 sp, [3 dc, ch 1] in next ch1 sp, repeat from * 4 times, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc, ch 1] in last ch2 sp, join with a sl st into the 3rd ch of beg ch3, turn your work.

Round four to nine (if doing the striped pattern), repeat round 3, increasing the number of 3dc clusters along the straight edge for each round. Once you’ve made your calculations, continue to add rounds in the solid color (if needed), until your center section is the right size. Then, carry on with the striped pattern as shown below.

If you are using one color, continue repeating round 3 until one of the straight edges equals half the measurement of your bust measurement. Make two hexagon panels.

Then the striped pattern will be as follows:

• accent color x 1 round
• solid color x 2 rounds
• accent color x 1 round
• solid color x 2 rounds
• accent color x 1 round
• solid color x 1 round only

Once you have two hexagon panels made, lay them out as shown above and sew the back seam and shoulder seams together using a whip stitch (or stitch of your choice). I show how to do that in the video tutorial starting at 21:05.

You can custom fit the shoulder seams, and I do talk more about this in the video tutorial starting at 29:15. I left a neck opening of 4.25″ from the front edge for a nice collar. You can pin the shoulder seam together to see what works best for you.

Finishing edge

Working into the back of the crocheted hexagon cardigan, along the top of the collar, with the right side facing you, join on the solid color with a slip stitch into the back loop and back bump of any stitch.

Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in the back loop, and back bump of each st to the first inside corner. Stop 1 stitch before the shoulder seam. Work a 3dctog into the next 3 sts including the seam stitch [beg 1st dc in 1st st, yo pull through 2 loops only (2 loops on hook), beg 2nd dc in st of shoulder seam, yo pull through 2 loops only (3 loops on hook), beg 3rd dc in 3rd st, yo pull through 2 loops only (4 loops on hook), yo pull through all 4 loops on hook]. (see 33:50 in the video tutorial if needed)

Continue working 1 dc in the back loop and back bump of each st until you reach the next outside corner (ch2 sp). 5 dc in ch2 sp. Repeat this pattern all the way around, working 5dcs in each outside corner and another 3dctog into the other side of the inside neck edge. Fasten off with a ch 1 or use the invisible stitch shown in the video tutorial at 37:16.

Repeat the same stitch pattern around the sleeves and darn in all your tail ends. The yarn I used was a bit slippery, so I actually did a knot first and then darned in the ends.

Extra tips

For how to join on a new ball of yarn or new color without a knot, see 17:50 in the video tutorial

For how to join a new ball of yarn or a new color using the magic knot, see this video tutorial.

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I created this tutorial in two parts. In part one, you will learn how to crochet the actual shawl pattern, and in part two, I will show you how to do the tassels and pockets. Part one has the added bonus of making this pattern into a scarf! As I was crocheting the shawl, I realized that it would work beautifully as a scarf, so I show you how to do that as well.

In part two, we deal with all those tail ends by weaving them into the tassels, so there is no need to darn them all in (and that would be a big job!) I also show you how to make the pockets and sew them on…and I also talk a bit about color choice for the pockets. There are so many possibilities! While this project is called a Crochet Pocket Shawl for Beginners, a little bit of crochet experience would be helpful. If you are brand new to crochet, you may want to check out my Beginner Crochet Series for all the basics.

I am using all number 4 medium weight yarn (also known as worsted weight), but you can use whatever yarn you have. The pattern is very easy to adjust to make the shawl any size you like. The amount of neutral yarn required for this weight yarn is approximately 360 yards or 329 meters. You will have to calculate the amount of neutral yarn required if you are using a different weight yarn.

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Selection of scrap yarn (preferably all in the same weight, but I do address that in the tutorial)
• A neutral yarn of your choice. I used the Bernat Premium Yarn in Black, which is not available online. The Bernat Satin Solid would be a good alternative (2 balls required)
• Crochet hook: any size between 4mm (G-6) and 6mm (J-10).
• Darning Needle
• Stitch markers (optional)
• Scissors
• Hand steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

Here is an image of the shawl with eight pattern repeats. This is the perfect width for a scarf! Check out Part One of this tutorial just below this image to learn how to make the shawl the size you want and how to crochet the design. You can watch the tutorial here or pop over to Youtube and watch it there!

How to Crochet a Pocket Shawl for Beginners ~ Part One

In the image below, I show one of the pockets, which are crocheted using the same pattern as the shawl. You can make the pockets any size you like and I give you a couple of different options in this tutorial. I just love the idea of using two different color pockets, but of course, you can make your pockets any color you like!

How to Crochet a Pocket Shawl for Beginners ~ Part Two

You can watch Part Two here or watch it on YouTube. I don’t have a written pattern for this tutorial, and I do apologize for that. I hope to be able to offer written patterns at some point, but for now, this is what I can do.

If you liked this tutorial, you may also like:

• Lavender Fields Pocket Shawl
• Easy Crochet Fall Scarf
• How to Crochet a Granny Square Hat

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If you are new to crochet, then you can check out my beginner crochet series where you will learn all the basics of crochet and everything you need to know to crochet this pocket shawl. The experience that is needed for this project is to have a good feel for tension. The ribbing is done in a tight tension and the body of the shawl is done using a loose tension. We do use two different crochet hook sizes to help with this as well.

I’m calling this the Lavender Fields Pocket Shawl because the yarn I used for this project is such a pretty color of lavender. I used the Bernat Premium Yarn in Grand Purple, but it isn’t available through Yarnspirations or anywhere online. I found mine at Michaels Canada, so perhaps you can find it locally. If not, you can use any number 4 medium weight yarn you like!

Buy this pattern (downloadable PDF file) in my Ravelry Store!

I put a link for the Bernat Super Saver yarn below in a similar color. This line isn’t quite as soft as the Premium yarn, but it does wash up really well, and the fabric becomes nice and soft after a couple of washes. The finished shawl is 12″ (30cm) by 64″ (162cm). This pattern is easy to adjust in width and length if desired.

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Number 4 medium weight yarn: 720 yards (658 m) (approximately)
• 4 mm (G-6) and 5.5 mm (I-9) crochet hooks
• Darning needle and stitch markers
• Scissors
• Hand Steamer (optional)

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

I have created two video tutorials for this pocket shawl pattern, and you can find them below. The shawl is made by creating a long foundation chain and working a pattern of single crochets and double crochets. The pattern starts with 211 chains, resulting in a starting length of 60″ (152cm), based on my tension. The shawl does stretch out a bit by the time it is done, which left me with a finished length of 64″.

You can make this shawl any length you like. I am quite short (5’1″), so this length is good for me, but if you are taller, you may want to make the foundation chain longer. All you need to do is to add 1″ (2.5cm) of foundation chain for every additional inch of height. So, for example, if you are 5’8″, add another 7″ (18 cm) to the length of your foundation chain. Your foundation chain also needs to be an odd number of chains for the pattern repeat.

Buy this pattern (PDF download) from my Ravelry Store!

Check out the video tutorials below for all the details!

The ribbing is created using the 4 mm crochet hook and five rows of top loop single crochets. The body of the shawl is made using the 5.5 mm crochet hook and a double crochet, 2 together stitch (dc2tog). It works up so beautifully, but this is where you need to finesse the tension a bit.

In part one of this tutorial, I show you how to create the shawl itself. You can watch the tutorial here or pop over to YouTube and watch it there.

In Part Two of the tutorial, I show you how to make the pockets and then sew them onto the shawl. Again, you can watch it here or on YouTube.

If you like this tutorial, you may also like:

• Colorful Granny Square Blanket
• Easy Crochet Shawl
• Granny Square Tote Bag

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The post How to Crochet a Pocket Shawl ~ Easy Pattern appeared first on Create and Crochet.

You can see how lovely the shape of the shawl is working out. I think it looks like angel wings! At this point, the pattern will become much simpler. When you come to the end of row fourteen, do not crochet the chain 3 before turning your work…just turn your work after the last double crochet.

Row 15: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp. Repeat from * 46 times (total 48 dc). Work corner [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 in ch2 sp]. (sorry I forgot to take a photo of this)

Coming out of the corner, *1 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 46 times, 1 dc in last st (total 48 dc), turn your work.

Row 16: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 47 times, 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (total 50 dc). Work corner [2 dc in top loop of the first ch of ch2 sp, ch2, 2 dc in the top loop of the second ch of ch2 sp, ch 1]. Again I apologize for not taking a photo of this.

Coming out of the corner, 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st, sk st. *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 47 times, 1 dc in last st, (total 50 dc), turn your work.

From here on in, the pattern is simply a repeat of rows fifteen and sixteen. There is a natural increase of two stitches in every odd row and four stitches in every even row starting in row eighteen. But you will find the actual pattern for each row below.

Row 17: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp. Repeat from * 49 times (total 51 dc). Work corner [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 in ch2 sp]. *1 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 49 times, 1 dc in last st (total 51 dc), turn your work.

Row 18: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 51 times, 1 dc in top loop of next st, ch 1 (total 54 dc), Work corner [2 dc in top loop of the first ch of ch2 sp, ch2, 2 dc in the top loop of the second ch of ch2 sp, ch 1]. 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st, sk st. *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 51 times, 1 dc in last st, (total 54 dc), turn your work.

Row 19: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp. Repeat from * 53 times (total 55 dc). Work corner [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 in ch2 sp]. *1 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 53 times, 1 dc in last st (total 55 dc), turn your work.

Row 20: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 54 times, 1 dc in top loop of next st, ch 1 (total 57 dc), Work corner [2 dc in top loop of the first ch of ch2 sp, ch2, 2 dc in the top loop of the second ch of ch2 sp, ch 1]. 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st, sk st. *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 54 times, 1 dc in last st, (total 57 dc), turn your work.

Row 21: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp. Repeat from * 56 times (total 58 dc). Work corner [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 in ch2 sp]. *1 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 56 times, 1 dc in last st (total 58 dc), turn your work.

Row 22: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 57 times, 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (total 60 dc), Work corner [2 dc in top loop of the first ch of ch2 sp, ch2, 2 dc in the top loop of the second ch of ch2 sp, ch 1]. 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st, sk st. *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 57 times, 1 dc in last st, (total 60 dc), turn your work.

Row 23: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp. Repeat from * 59 times (total 61 dc). Work corner [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 in ch2 sp]. *1 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 59 times, 1 dc in last st (total 61 dc), turn your work.

Row 24: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 60 times, 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (total 63 dc), Work corner [2 dc in top loop of the first ch of ch2 sp, ch2, 2 dc in the top loop of the second ch of ch2 sp, ch 1]. 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st, sk st. *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 60 times, 1 dc in last st, (total 63 dc), turn your work.

Row 25: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp. Repeat from * 62 times (total 64 dc). Work corner [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 in ch2 sp]. *1 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 62 times, 1 dc in last st (total 64 dc), turn your work.

Row 26: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 63 times, 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (total 66 dc), Work corner [2 dc in top loop of the first ch of ch2 sp, ch2, 2 dc in the top loop of the second ch of ch2 sp, ch 1]. 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st, sk st. *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 63 times, 1 dc in last st, (total 66 dc), turn your work.

Row 27: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp. Repeat from * 65 times (total 67 dc). Work corner [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 in ch2 sp]. *1 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 65 times, 1 dc in last st (total 67 dc), turn your work.

Row 28: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 66 times, 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (total 69 dc), Work corner [2 dc in top loop of the first ch of ch2 sp, ch2, 2 dc in the top loop of the second ch of ch2 sp, ch 1]. 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st, sk st. *1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st (ch1 sp), sk st. Repeat from * 66 times, 1 dc in last st, (total 69 dc), turn your work.

Row 29: 1 dc in first st, ch 1, *1 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp. Repeat from * 68 times (total 70 dc). Work corner [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 in ch2 sp]. *1 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * 68 times, 1 dc in last st (total 70 dc), turn your work.

For the last row of single crochet, you will need about 23 to 24 yards of yarn to complete the border. If you have enough yarn, especially if you are using another brand, then you can crochet 30 rows in total before doing the final border.

Last row (border): 1 sc in the top of the dc from the previous row (going under 2 loops). *1 sc in ch1 sp, 1 sc in top of next dc. Repeat from * to last ch1 sp before the corner. 1 sc in next 2 dc, 3 sc in ch2 sp (corner), 1 sc in next 2 dc. *1 sc in ch1 sp, 1 sc in top of next dc. Repeat from * to the end of the row.

Fasten off and darn in your tail ends. You are almost done!

To block the shawl, wash the garment according to the yarn manufacture’s directions. Lay the shawl on a blocking board, styrofoam board, or just some towels and hand press into a nice shape as shown above. You can pin it in place if desired. Let dry…and now…you are done!

I designed this shawl with that nice curve at the beginning, so that it will lay comfortably over your shoulders without sliding off. But if you like, you can wear the shawl with a pretty shawl pin!

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Please leave a comment below and click on the social share button to share one of the images here!

If you liked this tutorial, then you may also like:

• Granny Square Poncho for Toddlers ~ Part One
• Granny Square Poncho for Toddlers ~ Part Two
• Crocheted Rocks and Round Things

The post Easy Crochet Shawl ~ Part Two appeared first on Create and Crochet.

I did a yarn review on this yarn, and my one issue with it is that Lion Brand is calling this a number 4 medium-weight yarn, but it is really more like a number one light-weight yarn. As a matter of fact, I am going to use a number one light-weight yarn to demonstrate the pattern because the color I am using for the shawl is quite dark and doesn’t show very well in the photos.

If you are new to crochet, then you can check out my Beginner Crochet Series, where you will learn everything you need to know to make this Easy Crochet Shawl Pattern! I have also created a video tutorial because that does help if you are a beginner or if you have a hard time reading or understanding patterns. You will find the video at the bottom of this post.

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

The supplies you will need for this project are:

• Lion Brand Shawl in a Cake Yarn ~ ‘Mellow Muse’
  • (or equivalent shawl weight yarn…481 yards or 440 meters in total)
• I-9 or 5.5 mm crochet hook
• Scissors
• Darning needle

To begin, ch 4 and join with a sl st in the top loop of the first ch to create a ring.

Row one: Ch 4 (counts as first dc plus ch1), *1 dc, ch 1 into the ring.

Repeat from * 3 times, 1 dc to finish row (total 6 dc incl beg ch3). Ch 3, turn your work.

Row two: 1 dc in the top loop of the first stitch (at the base of the ch3), ch 1.

*1 dc in top loop of next stitch, ch 1. Repeat from * 7 times, 2 dc in top loop of the 3rd ch of beg ch3 (total of 12 dc’s) Ch 3, turn your work.

Row three: (this is the beginning of the pattern repeat). 1 dc in both loops of the first stitch (at the base of the ch3), ch 1. *1 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp, 2 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * once more.

Work tip of the shawl (corner): 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 1 in ch1 sp. *2 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp, 1 dc, ch 1 in next ch1 sp. Repeat from * once more. 2 dc in 3rd ch of beg ch3. Ch 3, turn your work.

Row four: 1 dc, in both loops of the first stitch (at the base of the ch3), ch 1. *sk st, 1 dc in top loop of next st, ch 1.

Repeat from * 6 times. You will be at last dc before the ch2 sp. (don’t skip a stitch). Work corner: 2 dc in top loop of the first ch of ch2 sp, ch2, 2 dc in the top loop of the second ch of ch2 sp, ch 1.

Work down the next side: 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next st. *sk st, 1 dc, ch 1 in top loop of next stitch. Repeat from * 5 times. 2 dc in both loops of beg ch3. Ch 3, turn your work.

Row five: Repeat row three, alternating 1 dc, ch 1 in the ch1 sp with 2 dc, ch 1 in the next ch1 sp. This pattern repeat will increase with each consecutive row. Depending on the length of the row, you may finish with either 1 dc or 2 dc before the corner.

Make sure to go down the other side, repeating the same stitch you came up to the corner with (ie: if you have 1 dc, ch 1 before the corner, come out of the corner with 1 dc, ch 1). You will finish each row of the row 3 repeat with 1 dc in the last ch 1 sp and 2 dc in the third chain of the beg ch3 (the same as how you started the row). If not, then you have made a mistake…it should be easy to find.

Row six: Repeat row four, increasing the number of stitches with each consecutive row. As you come up to the corner, you may have a stitch to skip (unlike row four). Again, if you skip a stitch coming into the corner, you will want to skip a stitch coming out of the corner.

Rows seven to fourteen: Repeat rows three and four until you have fourteen rows. The stitch count for this project can be a bit tricky as it can be easy to miss a stitch because of the lacy-type stitches. For that reason, be mindful of your stitch work, and always repeat the same number of stitches down the second side of the shawl as what you came up to the center with.

This completes Part One, in Part Two, the pattern will change slightly until the shawl is complete and then we will finish the last row with a simple edge. Check out Part Two here.

If you like this pattern, you may also like:

• Ferris Wheel Scarf Pattern
• Rectangle Granny Square Blanket
• Crochet a Bohemian Scarf

Sharing is caring…click on the social share button and choose an image from below!

The post Easy Crochet Shawl ~ Part One appeared first on Create and Crochet.

In this tutorial, we will join the two panels together to create the poncho shape and then crochet a nice and simple finish around the neck edge and bottom of the poncho. If you followed the design in Part One, you will have two panels the same, of 18 squares each.

For this tutorial, I’m going to write the instructions using plain English, without any abbreviations. I have also created a video tutorial for this project and you can find that at the bottom of the post. Everything you need for this project is listed in Part One, but for your convenience, here is what I used. The Bernat Premium line is currently not available online, but I did find some at Walmart.

• Assorted colors of a number 4 medium weight yarn. These are the colors I used and you can substitute similar or different colors!
• Bernat Super Value Peony Pink
• Bernat Super Value Aqua
• Bernat Premium Coral Peach
• Bernat Premium Hot Pink
• Bernat Premium Teal
• Bernat Premium Spring Green
• Bernat Premium Gold
• Cascade Yarns Anthem 09
• Crochet hooks in sizes E-4 (3.5mm), G-6 (4mm) or 7 (4.5mm) depending on garment size.
• Scissors
• Darning Needle

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

To create the poncho shape, bring the bottom panel up to the left side of the top panel, lining up square A to square B. Join these two panels together with the invisible whip stitch on the wrong side (taught in Part One).

Lay the L-shaped panel back down as shown in the third image. Fold the long edge in half to the left side so the wrong side is facing out. Then fold the short edge in half to meet the top piece. Sew this seam together using the invisible whip stitch. Darn in all your ends and turn the poncho right side out.

Join the trim color (I’m using Aqua) in the first stitch before the inside V of the neck edge with a slip stitch, chain one (this counts as your first single crochet). Make one single crochet in the corner stitch (the same one you whip stitched into).

Single crochet into the whip stitches in the ‘V’, and single crochet into the next stitch (the same one you whip stitched into on this side).

Single crochet in each stitch along the first square. The second square is the shoulder of the garment. For the length of this square, skip a stitch, do one single crochet in the next stitch, skip a stitch and repeat to the end of this square. For the next square, and all the way around to the next shoulder square, do one single crochet in each stitch. Repeat one single crochet in every other stitch of the shoulder square.

Continue with a single crochet in each stitch to the end of the round. Join with a slip stitch in the beginning chain one. For row two, chain one (this counts as your first single crochet).

Do one single crochet in each stitch around the neck edge and join this round with a slip stitch in the beginning chain one. Fasten off and darn in your ends.

To crochet around the bottom edge, join on the Aqua yarn (or color of your choice) into the chain two space of the bottom square on the back of the poncho with a slip stitch. Chain one (this counts as your first single crochet), and do two more single crochets in the chain two space.

Make one single crochet in each stitch, making sure to pick up the seam stitches in between the squares, all along the straight edge. When you get to the next corner, make three single crochets into the chain two space. Carry on with a single crochet in each stitch to the end of the round. Join with a slip stitch into the beginning chain one.

Slip stitch over to the next stitch (the middle stitch) of the corner (it’s a bit hard to see that in the image above). Chain three (this counts as your first double crochet), and do four double crochets into the same stitch.

Make one double crochet in each stitch to the next corner. Make five double crochets in the middle single crochet in the corner. Carry on with one double crochet in each stitch to complete the round. Join into the third chain of the beginning chain three with a slip stitch and fasten off. Darn in your tail ends.

And you are done! Isn’t this just the cutest poncho! What I like about this design is that the style is funky and fun and not ‘cutesy baby’ (which is fine too, but it’s fun to have something different). I think the poncho would look great with cute little denim jeans and cowboy boots!

You do want to wash the poncho before wearing it because this really helps to soften the fabric. Just follow the directions on the yarn of choice. The Bernat yarn softens considerably after washing. I talked a bit about choosing non-toxic laundry products in Part One, and you can read more about that here if you like.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial! Please leave a comment in the comments section, and share this post by clicking on the ‘social share’ button and choose an image from below to share.

If you liked this tutorial, you may also like:

• How to Crochet a Granny Square Tote Bag
• Ferris Wheel Granny Square Scarf
• How to Crochet a Granny Square Hat

The post Granny Square Poncho for Toddlers (part two) appeared first on Create and Crochet.

The tutorial is divided into two parts because while this is an easy project and is suited for beginners, there are a lot of steps involved. It was too much to fit into one post. I don’t have any toddlers around that I can use as models for the poncho, but I do have my husband’s little teddy bear to fill in! This gives you a good sense of the size of the poncho. You can find Part Two of the tutorial here.

You can use any yarn you like for this project. I am using a number 4 medium weight acrylic yarn in the Bernat Super Value and Premium line. This yarn is great to use because it is easy to work with, is fairly inexpensive, and is very durable! The Premium line doesn’t seem to be available through Amazon or Yarnspirations, but I was able to find mine at Walmart.

Some people complain about the Bernat yarn being stiff, but once you wash the yarn, it softens up considerably. I don’t recommend using any ‘softening’ products like dryer sheets or laundry detergents because those products contain synthetic ingredients that can be harmful to your health.

Most people don’t realize how toxic synthetic fragrances, cleaning agents, and softening agents are! If you want to learn more about this, I wrote an article called Are Commercial Laundry Products Making You Sick? After you read this, you may not want to expose yourself or your precious little ones to such toxic chemicals!

I also have a tutorial on how to make Natural Dryer Sheets, which are also great to help soften fabric. There are so many natural alternatives these days that it is completely unnecessary to use any synthetic laundry or cleaning products!

The supplies you will need for the Granny Square Poncho for Toddlers are:

• Assorted colors of a number 4 medium weight yarn. These are the colors I used and you can substitute similar or different colors!
  • Bernat Super Value Peony Pink
  • Bernat Super Value Aqua
  • Bernat Premium Coral Peach
  • Bernat Premium Hot Pink
  • Bernat Premium Teal
  • Bernat Premium Spring Green
  • Bernat Premium Gold
  • Cascade Yarns Anthem 09
• Crochet hooks in sizes E-4 (3.5mm), G-6 (4mm) or 7 (4.5mm) depending on garment size.
• Scissors
• Darning Needle

Some (but perhaps not all) of the links in this blog are affiliate links to Amazon.com. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. This page contains some affiliate links. Please see my policy page for details. I look for the best possible option for your convenience, however, I encourage you to support your local shops!

If you are new to crochet, check out my Beginner Crochet Series where you will learn all the techniques and stitches required for the project.

The poncho I am making is for 12 to 18 months which is a medium toddler size. You can make this poncho to fit 6 to 12 months, 12 to 18 months, and 18 to 24 months. To do this, you simply have to make your granny squares a certain size. This can be done in two ways…adjust the size of the yarn or use a different size crochet hook. It also depends on your tension, so you will have to make some sample squares to get the right size.

A smaller hook and yarn will create a smaller square, and of course, a larger yarn and hook will make a larger square. For this project, you could probably just go down one size hook for the infant poncho and up one size for the large toddler. The size of the squares should be:

• Infant = 2.5″ (6.5cm) with an E-4 (3.5mm) crochet hook
• Medium Toddler = 2.75″ (7cm) with a G-6 (4mm) crochet hook
• Large Toddler = 3″ (7.5cm) with a 7 (4.5mm) crochet hook

The stitches required for this project are a chain stitch (ch), a slip stitch (sl st), a slip knot, single crochet (sc), and double crochet (dc).

Begin with a ch 5 and sl st into the beg ch1 to create a ring.

Round One: Ch 3 (counts a first dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, *3 dc in ring, ch 2.

Repeat from * two more times. Join round with a sl st into the 3rd ch of beg ch3. Ch 1 to fasten off.

Round Two: Join new color with a slip stitch in any ch2 sp (put the slip knot on hook, place hook through ch2 sp, grab the yarn and bring it through the ch2 sp and complete sl st). Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in ch2 sp, ch 1.

*3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch2 sp, ch 1, repeat from * two more times.

Do not fasten off. Cut tail about 4″ (10cm) in length and thread onto the darning needle. Bring the needle from the back of your square into the top two posts of the 3rd ch of beg ch3. Then bring the needle down in between the V-stitch of the previous ch1 into the back of your work. Mimic a stitch with the yarn. Darn in the tail ends. This creates a ‘knotless’ finish which is nice when joining squares together.

You will need a total of 36 squares in assorted colors. You can see the color combinations I used above. There will be two blocks of 9 squares with assorted colors. There are some duplicates in each block. These two blocks will be joined together to create one panel with 18 squares in total. You will create two panels with the same color scheme. I address color in more detail in the video tutorial if you want to check that out.

The sizes of the blocks and panels will be as follows:

• Infant: block = 7.5″ by 7.5″ and panel = 7.5″ by 15″
• Medium Toddler: block = 8.25″ by 8.25″ and panel = 8.25 by 16.5″
• Toddler: block = 9″ by 9″ and panel = 9″ by 18″

It’s a good idea to pin your squares together and take a photograph of the blocks and panels once you have them all laid out. It can be very easy to get them mixed up! You can join your squares together any way you like, but I am using an invisible whipstitch that will be worked from the back of the squares.

Start by joining one row of three squares together, working on the wrong side. Cut a piece of yarn three times the length of a square and thread that onto a darning needle (I’m using the Auqu to join the squares and finish around the poncho). Bring the needle under the back post of the first ch2 on the outside corner of the square closest to you (this is not the V-stitches on the top of the square, but the bump on the back of the stitch). Pick up the same stitch on the adjacent square. Bring the yarn through and repeat on the next stitch, with the needle going in the direction shown in the image above.

Continue to whipstitch along the back, picking up the back bump of each stitch. Be careful in the ch1 sp because it can be easy to pick up one of the top V-stitches by mistake.

Whipstitch all the way across including the two chains in the corners. Darn in your tail ends. See how nice that looks from the top! The Aqua yarn will show a little bit, but with all the different colors in the poncho, it will blend in nicely.

Once you’ve joined three rows of each block, join each of the three rows together to complete one block. Cut the yarn about two and a half times the length of the row. When you come to an intersection of squares in each row, make sure to pick up the Aqua yarn at the end of the squares that you’ve already sewed together. This helps to make a nice join in the intersection of the squares.

Once you’ve completed each block, join the two blocks together to make one panel. Repeat the process to make two panels in total. This completes Part One! In Part Two, we will join the two panels together to create the poncho shape and then finish the neck edge and border.

As always, I’ve created a video tutorial to go along with this post for your convenience. If some of these directions are confusing, then you can check out the video for easier instructions. Check out Part Two Here!

Check out the matching hat here!

This hat comes in two sizes and is perfect for a complete set!

The post Granny Square Poncho for Toddlers (part one) appeared first on Create and Crochet.